Scotland: Coast to coast
Route Inverness and Kyle of Lochalsh
Which side are you? What should I do?? Right initially, then left
Distance 83 miles (133km)
Time: 2hrs 40mins
Frequency Trains every day: 4 (2 on Sundays).
Tickets £32 single
ScotRail
In Britain, there is only one train route that offers views of both coasts. It’s from Inverness into Kyle of Lochalsh. As the train nears Dingwall about 30 minutes after leaving Inverness, you can see the Cromarty Firth on the right. You can also enjoy views of the west coast sea-lochs when the train runs along the Atlantic coast to Kyle. Between, you can find plenty of alliterative desolation as the train pauses in Achnashellach and Achnasheen.
The final 20 minutes to Kyle will bring you a magical panorama of islands, heads and coast. The sun shines down on Loch Carron, with a view to the north of the wild Applecross Peninsula. As we approach Duncraig, seals scramble for safety. All too soon, we’re pulling into Kyle of Lochalsh.
Ireland: From Dublin to Wicklow
Route Dublin Connolly from Arklow
Which side are you on? Sit on the left
Distance 50 Miles
Time: 1hr 45mins
Frequency Six trains per day (three on Saturday and Sunday)
Tickets €8.85 single
“ Irish Rail
Londoners will be surprised to know that Dublin had commuter rails before the UK capital. Ireland’s first railway ran from Westland Row to Kingstown (now Dún Laoghaire), a stretch of track that is now the prelude to a fine route that extends right down to Wexford and Rosslare in the south-east corner of Ireland. The spectacular coastal section just south of Dún Laoghaire is a remarkable piece of engineering as the railway cuts under Bray Head. The railway was designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel and is similar to his famous coastal railway in Devon.
South of Bray Head, the railway hugs the coast, with fine views of the Wicklow Hills well off to the west and the Murrough Wetlands Closer to hand. If you are a coastal purist, I suggest stopping at Wicklow. Otherwise, stay on the train and enjoy the short excursion through the hills, down to the Vale of Avoca with its lush woods. In Arklow the railway rejoins the coast.
Germany: Over the sea, to the island Sylt
Route Husum to Keitum
Which side are you on? Sit on the left
Distance 44 Miles
Time: 1hr
Frequency Trains that run every hour
Tickets €21.60 single
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One cannot fail to be impressed by the determination of the Weimar Republic’s engineers and planners who needed to build a railway to Sylt. This sandy outpost of German territory is the largest of the North Frisian Islands. A ferry was used to reach Sylt from the mainland, which had been ceded by Denmark to Denmark following World War One. A causeway was built across the Wadden sea to reach Sylt. It opened in 1927, and a century later the Hindenburg causeway is still car-free – and since mid-April this year it is for the very first time possible to ride a posh ICE train over the sea to Sylt.
We leave Husum, an old coastal town that was shaped by its herring trade. We cross the harbour of the town on a high, elevated bridge. A cluster of fishing vessels is parked at the quayside. We then glide north, over marshlands and grasslands that are protected by high dykes.
You can really get a sense of these landscapes and their far-off horizons from the train. The sea is far away and held back by dykes. That changes after Klanxbüll, where the railway turns west and crosses salty mudflats to reach the open sea. Check tide tables and make this journey at high tide – ideally on a stormy day. It is an incredible experience to travel in such conditions. Light up at KeitumI consider it the prettiest village in Sylt. The village is easily accessible from the train station. There are several cosy cafés, and the fine Frisian thatch roofs and gables can be seen everywhere.
Spain: Galicia’s spectacular fjords
Route Ribadeo a Ferrol
Which side are you on? Sit to the right
Distance 91 miles
Time: 3hrs 10mins
Frequency Four trains per day
Tickets €11.15 single
OperatoThe r Renfe
This is a short but fantastic journey along the westernmost extremity of Europe’s most extensive narrow gauge rail network. The route runs from Hendaye in France through the Basque Country to the north coast of Spain through Cantabria. Asturias, and Galicia. I have mixed feelings regarding the entire route, which is mostly inland. It can be quite boring. Hendaye-Ferrol takes 20 hours by train, but the last section, which runs west from Ribadeo is a long journey with many twists and turn as the train navigates along the rugged coast around Ortigueira.
Ignore the tacky beachfront developments west of Ribadeo. The coast is soon regained as we leave the motorway. There are waves breaking on the right side and dense eucalyptus trees to the left. You can enjoy stunning views of the vast coastline. rias Estuaries are the hallmark of the Galician Coast. Cape Ortegal is to the north. When I travelled this route in mid-winter, the number of passengers was only a few for most the journey. However, the numbers grew during the last half hour when shoppers were joining us.
This is the humblest of local trains – those in search of luxury on rails may prefer the El Transcantabrico charter train, which includes Ribadeo to Ferrol as part of a wider seven-night itinerary – at eye-watering prices.
Italy: Calabrian Coast
Route Reggio di Calabria to Soverato
Which side are you on? Sit to the right
Distance 100 miles
Time: 2hrs 20mins
Frequency Every 1 to 2 hours
Tickets €11.90 single
Operator Trenitalia
Most tourists on the smart Frecciarossa train down the Calabrian coast decant at Villa San Giovanni to join the ferry to Sicily. In 15 minutes, you can reach Reggio di Calabria from here where fast trains to Rome and the north of Italy all terminate. This looks like the end and end of Italy. But not quite! Calabria’s coast is curved by a local railway, which leaves the Strait de Messina behind to reach Ionian shores.
This stretch of railway is the only one in Europe that follows the coast so closely. Ionian RailwayThe route extends to the faded Taranto, in Puglia. This is more than 290 mile from Reggio di Calabria.
This recommended taster of the line follows the coast around the southernmost tip of mainland Italy. It is a route of capes and bays, olives and oleander, the bright drama of a changing coastline and a sharp contrast to the dark forests of Aspromonte that dominate the hills on the left. Away to the right, there is nothing but the sea between here and the Libyan coast.
Europe by Rail: The Definitive Guide (19th edition) by Nicky Gardner & Susanne Kries (Hidden Europe Publications, £21.99). To order a copy for £19.79 go to guardianbookshop.com. There may be delivery charges.
