You can also find out more about For centuries, outsiders have been lured to the radiant hills and valleys of Andalucía, not least the Moors of north Africa who left such an impact on the land and culture. A recent influx of northern European enthusiasts has led to the creation of a number of small, seductive guesthouses that have joined some of the idiosyncratic Spanish properties. These are idyllic, tranquil settings in which to de-stress and recharge, hike, ride, cycle, cook, swim or simply stargaze – the rural skies here are blissfully free of light pollution. Nor are cultural highlights ever far away, whether in Granada, Córdoba or Seville.
Casa Mimi’s Starry Nights
Near Gérgal, in the eastern mountains bordering the Sierra de los Filabres, this Belgian-owned bed and breakfast has three charming rooms with ample outside space, views and a pool. It is a remote location, but it offers unbeatable access regional highlights, including Europe’s one desert. old film studios of Tabernas; Almería’s stupendous fortress; and the wild beaches of Cabo de Gata. One lesser-known attraction is the Calar Alto A night visit is possible to the largest astronomical observatories in Europe, located on a mountaintop nearby. Mediterranean dinners (€25) at Casa Mimi are on request and use seasonal produce, guaranteed by these former restaurateurs, Priscilla and Ben. Four bedrooms of the property can be rented out.
Doubles from €70 B&B, casamimi.net
Hostal Pampaneira: Hiking and cycling
Time-travel to old-school Andalucía in Las Alpujarras, the foothills of the Sierra Nevada. Almost 50 years old with local furnishings to match, this modest, 15-room family hotel overlooks the steep, whitewashed village of Pampaneira on dizzying bends high above Órgiva – an enclave for alternative lifestyles. The Berbers were responsible for the intricate design of Pampaneira and the farming that took place in the region. The restaurant offers a variety of hearty mountain dishes, including stews, roasts and roasts with local vegetables, olive oils and wine. Cliff climbing, mountain biking, horse riding, guided treks and excursions to the snowy slopes of 3,479-metre Mulhacén (the highest mountain in the Iberian peninsula) are all on offer for the active, while peerless Granada lies to the north.
Doubles from €42, triples €50, breakfast €10, hostalpampaneira.com
Embrace nature at Casa Olea
This converted farmhouse hides in a stunning, secluded valley north of the delightful baroque town of Priego de Córdoba in central Andalucía. Tim and Claire, the owners of the property, have over the years refined the comforts, activities and environmental credentials. Six elegant rooms surround a restaurant that offers panoramic views of the river, olive trees, woods, and two Moorish towers. Relax in the large pool after a day of self-guided hiking, cycling (bike rentals and navigation apps are available) or birding. The coup de grâce is a gourmet dinner (€36) cooked by Claire, laced with the property’s own olive oil. Casa Olea has been certified as an observatory, so you can enjoy the stars. Starlight hotel. Midway between Granada and Córdoba, serious sightseeing is also on the agenda.
Doubles €154 B&B (two-night minimum), casaolea.com
Finca Serrato is the top of the world
Hidden down a dirt road in the Montes de Málaga near Colmenar, about 50 minutes from Málaga, the finca offers three apartments and two double rooms in the farmhouse or outbuilding. The finca has a stylish, minimalist aesthetic. Some have wood-burning stoves and air conditioning, while others include kitchen facilities, a private patio, and kitchen facilities. The small pool offers panoramic views. The youthful French-Spanish hosts, Zélie and Nico, prepare delicious breakfasts, snacks and tapas, sourcing local ingredients. An hour away is Antequera and the surreal rock formations of El Torcal – an entrancing setting for hikes.
Doubles from €68, apartments from €77 (two-night minimum), breakfast €9, airport transfer €60, fincaserrato.com
Gourmet dining at Finca Las Encinas
You could consider this guesthouse to be intimate with only three bedrooms. But that impression will change when you are under the pergola, overlooking the pool, and you see the rippling seas of olive groves valued for their oil. Foodies should make a beeline here as Welsh chef Clive is passionate about Andalucían cooking, conjuring up fabulous seasonal dinners as well as cooking classes. The cosseting finca lies in a hamlet of La Subbética, a semi-mountainous region between Córdoba and Granada, with the Iznájar reservoir (for watersports) and castle just down the road. Maki, Clive’s Japanese wife, is a knowledgeable enthusiast of the area and takes guests to bodegas and olive oil mills, as well as cultural hotspots. Clive’s organic garden is used to enhance the menu and create cosy rooms.
Doubles from €80 B&B (two-night minimum), dinner €33, finca-las-encinas.com
Serenity La Dehesa Experience
Rest up in luxury glamping style in the heart of the Sierra Morena north of Córdoba, famed for Iberian pigs snuffling acorns beneath the oak trees. Scattered throughout the dehesa The ‘fertile pasture’ (for cattle and horses) is six wooden cabins on platforms, each with one or more bedrooms and a kitchen. There is also a plunge-pool outside. A “tubbo”, which is a transparent, spacious tube, would be a better option for total immersion. Slickly designed interiors contain fridges full of Andalucían wine and local gourmet produce, binoculars, and a telescope in some suites. Here, you are on your own and totally private, although the efficient staff are always on call to deliver breakfast, lunch or dinner (€35) and even offer massages. The ultimate retreat in total serenity and romance, as well as immersion in nature.
Doubles from €189 B&B, ladehesaexperiences.com
Eclectic retreat at El Molino del Abuelo
Two brothers and their mother will welcome you to this renovated water mill. The family project (the mill was set up by their grandfather – the AbueloIt is a green bubble located 20km west from Ronda in the village Montecorto. In front, the lush vegetation unfolds. Sierra de GrazalemaIt is a place of hiking trails, biking, birding, as well as classic architecture. pueblos blancos. Raúl and Florentino have curated an eclectic oasis of vivid colour and quirky craft and artworks – including murals by their sister. The five rooms are surrounded by two pools, an abundance of organic fruit and vegetable trees, and a communal kitchen to prepare snacks. However, the sound of the flowing stream is what will lull you to sleep. Yoga and bicycles, as well as tips about local attractions, are available along with the plentiful breakfast.
Doubles from €70, breakfast €7.50, adults only, elmolinodelabuelo.es
Walking wonders from Molinos de Fuenteheridos
Then, you can get started. Sierra de Aracena of western Andalucía, near Aracena, this 17th-century flour and olive mill has been converted in contemporary style to offer 10 huge, well-appointed rooms with luxury en suites. The mill room is now a common area, with plenty of seating and Moorish lamps. The grounds are extensive and include gardens, a saltwater pool and a freshwater pool. A river nourishes apple, chestnut, fig and walnut trees. The area is ideal for hiking, with Aracena Castle, stunning grottos, and Museo del Jamón – a 15-minute drive away, and the bars and restaurants of Fuenteheridos within walking distance. Seville, 90 minutes away, offers a wealth of cultural attractions.
Doubles from €99, breakfast €7, molinosdefuenteheridos.com
Fiona Dunlop has written the book Andaluz – a Food Journey through Southern Spain (Interlink Publishing (Interlink Publishing)
