Why this Japanese Ski Resort might be the best place to ski at night in the entire world

The wind was blowing and the snow was falling hard by the time I strapped my snowboard to the King Gondola. Niseko, the ski resort in Niseko. Japan’s Northern Island of HokkaidoMy first run in the snow was just as spectacular as I had heard. I was unable to see anything below me as I descended 3,500 feet into the powdery snow.

But once night fell, everything was different. The snow stopped falling, the crowds disappeared, and visibility increased under massive floodlights, which illuminated the slope like Christmas trees. As my legs began to hit their stride, I carved wide S-turns and glided effortlessly around bends. At one point, I caught an edge and flipped over, but it didn’t matter. The snow in mid-February was so fluffy I laughed it off, then zipped down to the gondola for another run. 

The popularity of night skiing is increasing as resorts across North America, Europe, and Australia have increased their opening hours. They do this to offer convenience, novelty, and more room for skiers. It’s also a great way to share your photos on social media. Niseko is the capital of after-dark ski. Niseko, unlike most other ski resorts, becomes a more pleasant place to be at night as the temperatures and winds decrease. It also boasts one of the brightest lighting systems out there, illuminating the entire mountain, not just the bunny slopes. Niseko is so well lit, you can even venture off-trail at night­—a rarity among ski resorts anywhere.

However, my own backcountry journey would have wait. After half a dozen runs, I felt ready to unwind. While Niseko has a few slopeside bars, it doesn’t offer the kind of raucous après-ski scene you might find in Vail or Verbier. It leans on something quieter, and more quintessentially Japanese. onsen, Natural hot springs are also called natural hot springs. 

Niseko is located in an active volcanic area that contains more than 20 volcanoes. Onsens. Many upscale hotel have their own spa, which includes Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve—a modern, 50-room property at the base of the resort, where I stayed for the first two nights. After stowing my gear in the high-tech locker room, I made a beeline for the bathhouse—a serene, minimalist space clad in dark stone—and sank my banged-up body into the steaming water. This hot tub was unlike the ones I’ve tried in the Rockies or the Alps. It had no harsh chemicals and only a stream of mineral-rich, piping-hot water.

I wore my spa slippers to rejuvenate myself and then padded the bottom of them. Sushi Nagi, The hotel’s intimate, omakase-style restaurant. The island of Hokkaido is a paradise for seafood lovers, with its cold waters and plankton rich waters. The amuse-bouche was a snow crab with salmonroe, yuzu and yuzu. This was followed by an enchanting procession of sushi and Nigiri—ending with a ribbon of tuna so fatty, it melted like butter. I wondered if the food could rival the snow.

Skiing does not have to be done at night. The next morning, I opened my curtains to blue skies and the snowcapped silhouette of Mount Yotei—a smaller, but no less majestic lookalike of Fuji. It was impossible to resist the view from my stone-lined bathtub, so I took a bath. After breakfast, Tsuyuki, a Niseko United guide, who promotes and oversees this ski area, met me. Nakabayashi, who was easy-going and relaxed, explained to me that the mountain consists of four separate resorts. Annupuri, which is the resort that’s furthest west, has a less crowded atmosphere and so she prefers it. 

The storm of yesterday had left behind a fresh layer of snow. Cruising down the Panorama run, I finally understood the fuss over “Japow”—the fluffy Japanese powder produced when frigid Siberian winds collide with vapor rising from the Sea of Japan. The result was smooth and silky like surfing on velvet. 

Nakabayashi, after a few runs suggested that we try the Shirakaba Trail, named for its wispy Japanese White Birch trees. Unlike bushy conifers, their elegant, paper-white trunks are thin and widely spaced, making them ideal for tree skiing. “Go at your own pace,” she said encouragingly. Zigzagging through birches, it turns out, was surprisingly easy and fun, like a wintry version of Super Mario Kart.

By midday, I was in need of a power-up. I made my way to Boyo-so, Family-run izakaya The log cabin is situated halfway up the hill. It offers comfort food such as chicken katsu, soba noodles with shrimp tempura, and my favorite, miso ramen—a Hokkaido specialty—which I slurped down at a fireside table, following it with a cold beer. At the ski resorts in upstate New York and Vermont where I learned to snowboard, I would have been lucky to find anything beyond burgers.

It’s easy for you to jump between the four resorts when the wind cooperates. In the following days, I tried the Hanazono challenging runs, the Osawa bowl and tree skiing at Annupuri.

After riding so many gondolas in the resort with strangers, it was impossible to ignore its diversity. There were more foreigners than Japanese skiers; I was told that about 30 percent were Australian, 15 percent were Southeast Asian, and, to my surprise, 20 percent were from the United States. The increase in American visitors started in 2018 when Niseko became part of the Ikon Pass Mountain Collective. The rising prices of tickets in the U.S. combined with a favorable exchange rate has made skiing in Japan cheaper than Colorado. I ran into a New York City resident at Tsubara Tsubara, a little restaurant that specializes in Niseko “soup curry”—a brothy twist on the Japanese classic.

It was also striking to see the mix of social classes. I talked to a coal miner from Australia, an executive from Germany, students from Malaysia and a Seattle-based tech guy. Maybe that’s why I didn’t feel the same sense of entitlement as at other ski resorts. No line cutting, no slope-rage, and no velvet ropes. I wondered if this had anything to do with the Japanese concept hairyo—an emphasis on being thoughtful and considerate toward others. 

What ever the case is, I hope that it lasts. I moved midweek. Setsu Niseko, A 190-room complex, with five restaurants including Afuri (a great ramen restaurant), that blends traditional Japanese craftsmanship with modern design. The new luxury hotel complex, which is set to open in 2022 as part of the “Aspen of the East” development wave, will transform what was once an backpacker’s paradise into a place that some call the Aspen of the East. In addition to the Ritz-Carlton Reserve and a Park Hyatt, which both opened in 2020, an Aman and Six Senses are slated in the next couple of years, along with a complex of $4 million villas, some of which were designed by the architect Shigeru Ban.

The Setsu is in Grand Hirafu. It’s the most lively of the four resorts, with the largest downtown area, full of bars, restaurants, hotels, and shops. Niseko’s contrast of high and low was evident as I walked Main Street. I saw food trucks serving ramen, gyozas, oysters, sushi, and ice-crusted walkways. Kitchen, The fusion of Japanese modern cuisine with Western cuisine.

It was time to hit up the bars after another perfect meal. The crowd was young, tipsy, and overwhelmingly Australian, especially at fratty-sounding spots like Freddy’s and Wild Bill’s. There were some stylish lounges including Bar Gyu+The entrance is marked by a vintage Coca-Cola machine. The bar had a cozy atmosphere, with candlelight, a hand-illustrated menu and curated Japanese whiskies.

On my way back to the Setsu I came across a futuristic metal shed which housed a club called Hertzz. The sound system was impeccable, red lasers cut through the haze and the DJ created an downtempo soundscape which reminded me Berlin. It was quiet, but I had been told that it would be busy in an hour. I looked at my phone—it was 10 p.m.—and realized another perk to night skiing: I could sleep in and still get plenty of runs. So I went to the bar again and ordered another beverage. 

The original version of this article appeared in the December 20,25 issue of Travel + Leisure Under the heading “Night Shift”.”