Katsu curry is one of those B-kyū gurume classics that has caught the imagination of diners outside Japan—alongside ramen, udon, gyoza ,and okonomiyaki, a savory vegetable pancake from Osaka Hiroshima. Tokyo’s monjayaki has not yet travelled; the same goes for Spaghetti Napolitan – aka Japanese Ketchup Spaghetti – which, according to legend, was created in Yokohama after World War II by American servicemen. I will try it later. Hashiya SpaghettiThe price is $7.30 US dollars at a father-and son shop in Hatagaya. The ketchup is umami rich and sweet-sour. It reflects the quality B-kyū food found in Tokyo’s neighborhoods at prices that barely dent the budget.
“The beauty of B-kyū is just how accessible it is,” says Palace Hotel Tokyo’s executive sous chef, Akira Ota, as we sit down that evening for a steak sandwich in the Palace Lounge. “A B-kyū dish may originate in a certain town or region, but wherever it is offered, you can try it and enjoy it. I consider it to be a home comfort food, because of its affordability and accessibility.
Ota tells us that our meal—Nick’s Special Filet Steak Sandwich—was named in honor of a guest who came here every week for more than 20 years for the dish. He says that Nick-san’s sandwich is like a good friend, and whenever he thinks about it he remembers happy times spent in our hotel. “It’s wonderfully representative of the approachability of B-kyū gurume—it is the kind of food that lingers in our memories.”
How to enjoy Tokyo’s B-kyū
Certain Tokyo neighborhoods are known for their signature B-kyū gurume dishes. Tsukishima is famous for its monjayaki, a savoury savoury Japanese pancake. Shimokitazawa has curry houses like Pannya Cafe Curry. Hatagaya suburb has Hashiya Spaghetti Great gyoza restaurants (including hipster spot Fil which also serves coffee). Torian You can also fry chicken, or karaage.
Tokyoites book tables online Tabelog The best way to discover the city’s finest dining is to explore it. Its Hyakumeiten section shows the Top 100 restaurants in various food categories (including plenty of B-kyū gurume favorites), and it works well with Google Translate.
What to look out for when buying dishes
Ramen
Tokyo has more than 5,000 ramen restaurants. Tsukemen Kinryu in Kanda is one of eight highly rated shops owned by the Koike groupThere are many different ramen styles. You can also find recommendations on Brian MacDuckston’s website Ramen bowls costing less that $7.
Udon
Udon shops are dotted all over Tokyo, with pit stops where bowls are cheap (under $3.50 USD) often found near major stations. Oni-himokawa Udon is a dish that originated in Gunma to the north of Tokyo. Hanayama Udon it’s served hot or cold with soy, sesame and sake dipping sauces from about $7 USD.
Monjayaki
Tokyo’s signature B-kyū gurume is monjayaki: a runnier version of okonomiyaki. There are 100 specialist restaurants around “Monja Street” in Tsukishima that serve it. Staff help diners cook vegetables, batter and toppings such as mentaiko (salted pollack roe) on a teppan grill at their table. Prices start around $7 USD.
Kushiyaki
Yatai and izakayas sell grilled skewers. For quality yakitori (the chicken variety), there’s Ningyocho Torihada in Ningyocho or Torigin in Ginza, where a meal comes in at about $20 USD.
Coffee and sando combination
Small coffee shops such as Camelback are popular purveyors of the uniquely Japanese sando. Popular coffee destinations include the Nakameguro and Jimbocho districts.
Steak sandwich
Nick’s special filet steak sandwich, served by Palace Hotel Tokyo at the ultimate comfort food. It’s made with premium Japanese beef cooked in red wine and fond de veau, and served in pillowy shokupan – but at $46 USD, it’s B-kyū more in vibe than price.
