T+L’s hotel review of the Rosewood Amsterdam

The Amsterdammers are curious—of course they are. The city’s former Palace of Justice is now the Rosewood Amsterdam, and they’ve waited 10 years to get a glimpse of it. As hotel builds are now being limited to combat overtourism Rosewood is the only hotel to have received permission to convert a non-hotel into a new hotel. The locals are aware that this was a momentous, historic event for the city.

It’s opening week, and as I weave through the crowds of people swarming around the lobby, I can see that they are enjoying themselves in their delightfully direct Dutch style. One thing is clear: they are not disappointed.

Piet Boon tells me that the hotel is a place where people can come together. The Grand Library was the Palace of Justice courtroom. We are sitting in this impressive event space. The former courtroom of the Palace of Justice is now adorned with a tapestry inspired by Rembrandt’s “The Night Watch”, a famous painting at the Rijksmuseum. A 1920s piano, with ivory keys, sits on the other side. Because this is Amsterdam, there are florals—fireworks of forsythia, frilly crown imperials, and lustrous ranunculus in eye-popping-orange—everywhere I look.

Boon is always returning to the lobby, no matter how impressive this room may be.  “We wanted people walking in to the lobby to feel as if they are in Amsterdam,” says Boon. Our inspiration came from Rijksmuseum’s central gallery. “We took our cues from the dignity and warmth of its central hall.” The hotel lobby is similar to the Gallery of Honor in the museum, a long corridor that leads toward “The Night Watch.” Instead of a Rembrandt, the digital art piece will be the focal point.

The lobby has an incredible sense of theatre, and compared to the dollhouse-sized city, it feels grand. But it is not a stuffy, museum. I’d describe it as the living room for the city with help-yourself plates of crumbly cookies, and art that is meant to be touched: The entry features a Studio Molen statica installation made up of little movable parts. A vending machine selling Casper Braat limited edition marble and gold sculptures is located further on. Mini sculptures are a tribute to the city, with canal houses, cones frites and stroopwafels. By my visit (on the third day of opening), all of the sculptures of joints (a cool €800 a pop) have been sold out from the vending machine. The check-in is set off to one side to avoid feeling like a barrier. And smiling doormen in the color of an aged Barolo serve as greeters and not gatekeepers.

Boon says, “You don’t have to worry about someone asking you what you are doing.” “It is comfortable chic.” I agree. After playing with the art and sipping gin from the house, and settling down in an elegant room that overlooks the ribboning canal, and elms trees, it was a great experience. These are the highlights of our stay.

The Rooms

Piet Boon is best known for designing private residences where money was no object. It’s therefore not surprising that the rooms at Piet Boon are both intimate and upmarket. They feel like mini apartments, with Dutch soul and quirky artwork. The most popular rooms will have a canal view over the Prinsengracht, but some of the smaller rooms look out onto tiny alleys. The design pays homage to the former use of the building. Pleated headboards are reminiscent of the folds in a judicial robe, and the legal scales double as art pieces. Meanwhile, the muted colors feel lifted from an Old Master Dutch painting. The five Houses are the most luxurious and impressive, with Library House being the best. The former Palace of Justice library is the inspiration for this suite. It’s laid out in an enfilade, with an entrance at each end, and has details like snow-white moldings, colossal lights, and plenty of books to make Belle envious.

Food and Drink

The Palace of Justice was first put on the market ten years ago. Amsterdam’s former mayor insisted that the new owner of the landmark infuse Indian culture in the space as a tribute for the Netherlands’ large Indian community. Rosewood responded with Advocatuur. It is equipped with two tandoori stoves that serve paneer-tikka and baked-samosas. Yann Bouvignies is responsible for the cocktail program at this bar, which is where the real action is. Bouvignies helped turn Scarfes in Rosewood London, an award-winning establishment, into a world-class institution. Bouvignies described this colorful bar as a “clash between law and rebellion.” It even features a copper-colored still, named Irene (after a key figure from Amsterdam’s 1960s anti-provo counterculture movement), which distills the house blend of Provo jonge jenever. Provo tastings in former holding cells are a unique experience. The bar serves its own beer called POJ (Palace of Justice), decorated with an image of the hotel, and produced in collaboration with Jopen Brewery based in Haarlem in Netherlands.

Eeuwen is a Dutch word for “centuries” and it’s the perfect place for breakfast, formal dinners and lunch. Service isn’t there yet and mistakes are aplenty in these early days, but there’s potential—especially in plates like North Sea shrimp croquettes; oysters from the Dutch province of Zeeland; and pillow-like poffertjes Breakfast (Dutch Pancakes)

The Court is an outdoor courtyard decorated with red-and cream-striped awnings, pink tulips and a cheerful atmosphere. This tea spot is from Piet Ouldolf, the landscape legend who designed New York’s Highline. It serves tea on beautiful Richard Ginori porcelain dishes. tompoucesThe Netherlands version of the mille-feuille.

Activities and Experiences

Rosewood’s sense of place is renowned, and guests are encouraged to explore the city and discover hidden pockets as well as popular attractions. The hotel’s classic saloon is a teak-and-mahogany beauty that dates back to 1924. Captain Arnold will take guests to nearby adventures, such as farm visits in the Duivendrechtse Polkder or lunch at the charming Durgerdam fishing village. You can rent bicycles, including cargo bikes and ebikes.

There are more than 1,000 works of art displayed in the hotel. It also offers guided tours to its collection. Highlights include the Casper Braat art vending machine; colorful Frank Stella reliefs from Rosewood’s private collection in Hong Kong; and two Maarten Baas clock reimaginings (‘Grandfather Clock’ and ‘Grandmother Clock’), with similar pieces found in the Rijksmuseum and Schiphol Airport. The gallery is also used for rotating exhibits.

The Spa

Asaya is set on a subterranean floor, but it’s awash in natural light from the light wells that are located above. It’s a temple for serenity. This is a rare find in the city. The 40-foot pale sapphire heated spa pool has a hot tub and sauna. Subtle Energies and Barbara Sturm products are used for treatments. The|Tides, a local wellness brand that uses ingredients like seaweed and algae in its potions.

Offers Family Friendly

Rosewood Amsterdam offers a range of services for families, including babysitting, interconnecting rooms and stuffed Benny cats, the hotel’s unofficial mascot. These are all based on the artwork of Amsterdam street artist Frankey.

Accessibility and sustainability

There are two fully accessible rooms in the hotel, as well as barrier-free public access, including to the dining outlets and spa.

Sustainability is achieved by using energy-efficient windows to conserve heat, rainwater and wastewater in the garden and systems like Greenview and Winnow to track carbon emission and manage food waste. The hotel’s sustainable sourcing policy prioritizes the use of certified sustainable ingredients on its menus. The boat of the hotel is also completely electric. The hotel provides Dutch classes and cooking training for local groups.

Location

Rosewood Amsterdam’s Centraal Station is a 10-minute walk away. It has direct rail connections with Schiphol Airport as well as Brussels, Paris, London, and more via Eurostar trains. The hotel is located in a central location (no need for a car) and many famous attractions, such as the Museumplein and some of Amsterdam’s best theaters, are within walking distance.

What to Expect from Your Stay

Rosewood Amsterdam is part of American Express Fine Hotels & Resorts, offering the following benefits: room upgrade upon availability; daily breakfast for two; $100 credit for food and beverage or spa; and guaranteed late check-out until 4:00 p.m. Centurion offers similar benefits, but with a guaranteed upgrade and a $300 hotel credit for stays of two nights or more.

Rates for nightly stays at Rosewood Amsterdam Starting at $1,361.