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    Home»Travel News»The reinvention of Catania – Sicily’s once crime-ridden second city | Sicily holidays
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    The reinvention of Catania – Sicily’s once crime-ridden second city | Sicily holidays

    adminBy adminJune 12, 2025Updated:June 12, 2025No Comments7 Mins Read0 Views
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    You can also find out more about the following:Goethe stated in 1787: “Sicily is the key to understanding everything.” I’d even go further to say it’s impossible for you to understand the island’s uniqueness without visiting Catania.

    Catania, located on the east of the island and the second largest city in Sicily, has been nicknamed the Black City due to the prominent use of basalt in its baroque architectural style. This Unesco World Heritage city, which rivals its more flashy neighbours Palermo or Taormina in terms of beauty, has been plagued by organized crime and poor governance until recently. This is all changing now, and very quickly. The decades-long crackdown against the Cosa Nostra is now paying off, as previously unwelcoming areas are now welcoming new businesses and tourists. My father comes from San Cristoforo in Catania’s poorest district. We often discuss how good times have finally arrived. Price points are still not in line with the excitement of the city, especially at its many restaurants.

    Nuova Trattoria del Forestiero

    Pasta alla Norma, the signature Catalan dish. Photograph: Albert Gonzalez/Alamy

    Trattoria del Forestiero is affectionately known by the locals as Rosanna’s. It has been serving traditional Italian dishes since 1965. In the 1990s, my British-born mother was a server at the restaurant. One afternoon, she had a heavy night of drinking and so, my father, who was also teaching English to her at a local language school, came in to make something for her to ease the pain. He stuffed cotolettaThe breaded cutlet of veal that is so popular in Italy with tomatoes, mozzarella and lots and lots and lot of garlic. Cotoletta alla Cicco It was then that I gave birth to a child named Cicco (the diminutive form of Francesco, the name of my father who died). This is a must-eat, just like the Catanian signature dish, pasta alla normea, named for Bellini’s opera. Rosanna’s version is especially delicious, thanks to its freshly-made hand-cut spaghetti.
    Mains about €10? Instagram

    La Pescheria Markets are a great way to get a hold of the right people.

    La Pescheria is Catania’s famous seafood market. Photo: Konstantin Kalishko/Alamy

    My family has worked on the stalls at this fish market since it was founded. I was raised to judge fish markets by their smell. If you’re staying in an apartment (there are many Airbnbs now), buy some sea scents. Buy a sea scent if you are staying in an Airbnb (there are many in the city). TellineYou can cook the clams as you normally would. vongole, Served with spaghetti. Antica Trattoria La Paglia is located in the market and has been feeding vendors and visitors for over 200 year. The fish restaurant has a longstanding rivalry with Rosanna’s – a ringing endorsement in locals’ books. The interior of this no-frills restaurant is not much to be proud of, but its black-and white photos on the walls provide nostalgic glimpses into the establishment’s past.
    Mains are about €12; trattorialapaglia.it

    Giammona You can also find out more about the following: Costa chioschi

    Chiosco Giammona serves fresh drinks since 1912. Photograph: Giorgio Morara/Alamy

    These soft drink stands have been serving the Catanese for decades, and everyone – and their nonna – has an opinion about which is the best. Giammona, for me, The 1912-founded company has the upper hand. Francesco Giammona has been running the kiosk since 1980, when he took over his father’s business. It still retains its original marble-clad bars and stained glass window. Giammona’s Sicilians’ favorite thirst quencher, the spritzer, has become more popular in recent times to appeal to tourists. seltz al limoneThen add a generous amount of salt and sparkling water. Please note that although Italians are big on food categories they don’t, for some mysterious reason, differentiate between lemons and limes – so say if you want limoni gialli (lemons), limoni verdi (limes).
    Drinks start from €1.50 at both kiosks. Giammona will be on Instagram. Costa, Piazza Turi Ferro 20

    Il Borgo di Federico

    Il Borgo di Federico is next to Castello Ursino. Photograph: eFesenko/Alamy

    Full disclosure: Il Borgo di Federico is run by my cousin. But I dare anyone to find an even more picturesque restaurant or one that serves a tastier grill bistecca di cavallo (horse steak). It is situated in Piazza Federico di Svevia. Diners who frequent the restaurant know to ask for an outdoor table to view Castello Ursino. A stunning Norman castle just feet from the restaurant. If you are hesitant to eat horse meat, choose the polpo all’insalata – octopus salad with parsley, capers and cubed vegetables.
    Mains start from €12; borgodifederico.it

    Gammazita

    Gammazita, a bar located in Piazza Federico di Svevia since 2013, is named for the Sicilian hero who jumped into a well to escape the Angevins in Catania in the 13th century. The bar in the neighbourhood was opened by a cultural group along with other initiatives “to help the people of the [San Cristoforo] My family is a regular because the drinks are cheap and strong. My family is a regular because the drinks are strong and cheap. There is a menu, but it’s perfunctory – most customers will describe what they’re in the mood for, and a bartender will make a drink for them. Cocktails are typically served in pint glasses.
    gammazita.it

    Bangla Spicy Food

    Bangla is gaining ground on A Fera O’Luni’s market. Photo: KroXi/Getty Images

    Sicilians tend to be resistant to change, even if it’s a good thing. My uncle refused stroganoff one time because he said “cream is only for desserts”. Sadly, many people miss out on the island’s growing Asian food scene. Catania has a large Bangladeshi community, which makes up 7% of its 13,000 foreign residents. Community restaurants are springing up all over the city. The modest-looking Bangla Spicy Food on Piazza Carlo Alberto is situated next to the historical A Fera O’Luni marketplace. The food is cheap and good at this place (where my great grandmother used to sell fruit and vegetables). You can order several meals and still get change for just five dollars. Do not leave without tasting the aromatic dalbhuna or flaky, buttery paratas. Most customers eat here with their hands, although the waiters are happy to provide cutlery upon request.
    Mains start from €1? Facebook

    Bar Alecci

    Pistachio granita served with brioche – enjoy your breakfast. Photo: Giuseppe Lombardo/Alamy

    Catanese have been visiting Alecci, a suburb of Gravina in Catalonia, since 1978. The original owner, still wearing the maroon uniform of the cafe and serving the best coffee in the city, is behind the bar. They serve granita for breakfast with brioche. According to legend in the ninth century when Sicily fell under the Moorish rule, Arabs combined the snow of Mount Etna (Europe’s most continuously belching volcano), with fruit-juices and granita. Sicilians have a strong pride in granita, and they adhere to strict rules regarding its flavour combinations. As a general rule, all fruits and chocolate, coffee or nut granitas are compatible.
    Coffees around €2; granitas start from €5. On Facebook

    Marina di Ragusa

    The beach of Marina di Ragusa. Photograph: Image Professionals GmbH/Alamy

    Marina di Ragusa has an incredibly beautiful village for those who want to get away from the bustle and noise of the city. nature reserve A 6km trail runs along the Irminio River, which is surrounded by lush Mediterranean vegetation. Sicilian families, birdwatchers, and migratory animals rest their wings in this area during their migration from Africa. Ristorante Il Delfino, perched at the edge of Andrea Doria’s shoreline and serving traditional Sicilian cuisine such as pasta con le sarde (made with sardines and wild fennel). Don Peppinu has a variety of sweet treats. Gelateria No. 1 in Italy. Although there are many outlets on the island, word-of-mouth says that the Marina di Ragusa outlet is the best. It serves a signature flavour of pistachio.
    The mains at Ristorante Il Delfino Startseite at €15. Gelatos at Don Peppinu cost around €4

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