There are only eight suites in the hotel. Hotel Dé Ricci Via di Monserrato is one of the streets I like best in Rome. It has not been commercialized, and retains its Roman charm. Talking of charm, I think the courtyard at Hotel Locarno It has become a second home to me. The main building is a crossroads in Rome where guests and locals meet for aperitivo. It still has the glamour of the 1960s when it was used as a living space for Fellini and Rossellini.
You can feel as if you are living in Rome by visiting the Vatican. SuperAttico Monserrato Via di Monserrato has a lot of gems. This beautifully designed penthouse is owned and tastefully curated by Daria Reina and Andrea Ferolla, the duo behind the cult-favorite boutique Chez Dédé. If you’re looking for a similar laid-back vibe, The Hoxton Set in the Parioli area, you can enjoy a quiet neighborhood while being close to the historic centre. A beautiful walk along Villa Borghese will take you there.
If you want a spa that will make you never want to leave it, then head to the Six Senses. I don’t usually go to spas because they are too energetic to relax, but after walking 20,000 miles through Rome their holistic massage was the only thing to bring me back to my senses. Over at VuotopienoThe apartments are designed to facilitate multidisciplinary exchanges, where artists and travelers can live together.
Day 1: The Tiber River
Forno campo de’ fiori, carbs and espresso for breakfast
The simple pizza by the slice at Forno Campo de’ Fiori—a bustling bakery in a crowded central piazza—is a thing of beauty. The staff will slice up small portions for you to try different toppings. Be sure to try the pizza bianca with olive oil, salt and tomato sauce and fior de zucca with zucchini flower, anchovy and cheese. The service is not particularly friendly, helpful or welcoming. But who has the time to be pleasant when you are slammed with work all day?
The Aventino is a quiet area, away from crowds. It has the Rose Garden, Circo Massimo and Liberty-style villas. Santa Sabina Basilica, built in the 5th century, is one of the best preserved early Christian church.
The menu at Piatto Romano may not be fancy, but it nails all the classics, serving gnocchi on Thursdays—when it’s traditionally eaten in Rome—and fish dishes on Fridays. The seafood is excellent, from the salt cod cooked with dried fruits and onions—a must—to the frittura mix of fried prawns and calamari, when it’s on the menu. The star dish is the milk-fed pajata, which is a mixture of fat pasta tubes with intestine-based sauce. You can also find a wide variety of seasonal vegetable side dishes. Simple but delicious desserts include fresh strawberries dusted with sugar, or a slice of warm ricotta.
Enotica L’antidoto’s coolness is evident from the very beginning. The interior, which is warmly lit, has exposed cement walls and brick arches. It’s all covered by an original beam roof. The place is perfect for sharing a few bottles organic natural wines and some small plates with friends. Locals from Trastevere and the surrounding areas are here. Fashionistas discuss their day at dinner, a couple dressed in yoga gear catches up with a bottle organic red wine from Puglia. Mats are tucked in a corner. Monthly chef residencies are held, which means that there is always a fresh new menu. Some dishes are created to match the wines, such as figs wrapped up in lard or savory tarts filled with olives, green beans and fennel. Our visit was marked by the un-Italian fried sandwich, which was served between two slices of toasted bread with rocket and achovies. You can enjoy a complimentary bag with cultured, salty butter and bread, even if you are not ordering any food.
The archaeological site of Trajan’s Forum was transformed into a contemporary art space, in which 2nd-century buildings engage in an ongoing, site-specific dialog with the present.
Take five minutes, even if you’re not an art enthusiast, to visit the Contarelli Chapel inside this small catholic Church. It is located just a few steps from the Pantheon. The Contarelli chapel is home to three Caravaggio pictures that show off the maestro’s chiaroscuro. You can see them all for free, away from the crowds of people who mob the works in museums.
The neighborhood bakery has great bread and is a wonderful place to spend time. You can also plan a trip outside of the city. It’s a wonderful way to begin the day. From the center of the city, you can walk across Villa Borghese to reach the neighborhood.
A volcanic lake with remarkably clear water, perfect for a morning swim before exploring the surrounding towns—specifically Trevignano for a stroll (possibly a swim) along the shore and Bracciano to visit the Castello Orsini-Odescalchi.
Worth the detour to Campagnano Romano, this family-run spot features an ever-evolving menu sourced almost entirely from their on-site farm; if available, the tacos alla picchiapò are a must.
Head back to Rome for a true hidden gem that only recently opened for private tours—this residence is an untouched masterpiece of Italian Art Deco. I love the green room with drapery from Fides Testi and engraved mirrors made by Pietro Chiesa. The corals are by Martinuzzi.
Modern osterias often follow a certain design style that can feel out of place and too modern in an historic city such as Rome. Trecca, a restaurant that is only a few decades old, manages to be spacious and welcoming. There’s a brown-tiled checkered floor, pendant lighting and marble-topped tables–with an ancient Roman terracotta sink thrown in, for good measure. The well-considered menu offers a variety of delicious dishes. You don’t have to worry if off-cuts are a concern. The pastas follow the traditional recipes (carbonara, Amatriciana), with the exception of the taglioni, which is topped with butter and chicken livers. Trecca, however, is not a place to go if you want to be safe. These off-cuts are done too well. If you’re going to try them, do it here–there’s a section on the menu for ‘refined palates’ (aka the brave ones). Ask the waiter to make his recommendations for the day instead of looking at the menu. You will not be disappointed.
