Costa Brava, Spain’s most famous coastline, has attracted celebrities from Truman Capote to Marcel Duchamp. Ava Gardner was also a fan of the region. While you could easily follow in their footsteps, spending your vacation hopping from one rocky playa to the next, that would mean missing out on the wider charms of Empordà, the storied region stretching inland from the Mediterranean Sea and north toward the French border.
First home is the first Greek This picturesque corner of Spain is located on the Iberian Peninsula. It’s only an hour and half north of Barcelona, encompasses a patchwork of honey-hued medieval towns, vineyard-blanketed hills, and rocky landscapes shaped by the fierce Tramuntana wind—which is said to have inspired the creative genius of the region’s most famous son, Salvador Dalí.
But Empordà’s pastoral beauty and agricultural soul shouldn’t distract from its more contemporary draws: a red-hot arts scene, detour-worthy diningA, andn explosion of new design-forward hotels, including Finca Victoria, Villa Salvador, and a new property launched by the brothers behind the region’s three-Michelin-starred El Celler de Can Roca. “Amazingly, Empordà still feels under-the-radar,” says Pau Guardans, founder of Único Hotels, whose jewel-box retreat Mas de Torrent The preferred hideaway of Barcelona’s elite, complete with a museum-worthy collection of art and helipad.
But with more travelers venturing beyond the well-trodden trail, Empordà is quickly shedding its locals-only reputation and emerging as one of Spain’s hotspots. A typical itinerary includes cycling through perfectly preserved 15th century villages, birdwatching at the Aiguamolls Wetlands, tasting wine at family-run bodegas and exploring the creative side of the region at ceramic studios or independent art galleries.
Here’s your sign to go before the crowds descend, using this guide as your jumping-off point for discovering the best things to do in Empordà, Spain.
Getting around Empordà, Spain
In just 40 minutes, a high-speed AVE train from Barcelona Sants brings you to Girona—the gateway to Empordà. Rent a car from there as the region’s attractions are spread out across the coast and countryside. Empordà’s quiet country roads You can also find out more about the following: wide-open landscapes have made it a favorite among the European cycling community; operators like Cycle Catalan and Eat Sleep Cycle Specialize in cycling tours lasting several days (no need to rent a car). Many tourists choose to hire a car. explore the region by foot, hitting trails such as the famed 220-kilometer Camí de Ronda, which traces the coastline from Blanes to Portbou, winding past clifftops, pine forests, and hidden coves. Still, a car will allow you to visit the most scenic towns and stretches.
What to do in Empordà, Spain
After you’ve enjoyed Costa Brava’s picturesque coastal towns, beaches and seaside gardens, like the Jardí Botànic Marimurtra, it’s time to discover the real heart of Empordà: the countryside. Coming from Barcelona, you’ll first encounter the rolling hills and medieval villages of Baix Empordà (Lower Empordà). Pals, Peratallada and other atmospheric villages are open-air museums with their cobblestone streets and Gothic architecture. Meanwhile, the town of La Bisbal d’Empordà is a favorite among design lovers for its centuries-old tradition of functional ceramics, best experienced at shops like Sampere You can also find out more about the following: Vilà Clara CeramistesSustainable boutiques, such as the Gla Empordà The concept shop Última Parada décor store, and CesteríaIt is famous for its basketry. Verges’ open-air Sunday market is a great place to find antiques, regional curiosities and other local items. The 37,000 square-foot market also has a lot of antiques. Antic Centre de Vulpellac antiques emporium.
While most fans of Surrealist art flock to Cadaqués to visit Salvador Dalí’s seaside home, the inland town of Púbol is just as worthy a stop: It’s home to the castle Dalí gifted to his muse, Gala, offering a glimpse into the most intimate aspects of their private life. The restaurant is next door. Can Bosch PúbolThe former Gala’s private chef still runs the restaurant. Also in Púbol is the studio-gallery of ceramicist Caterina Roma, who crafts exquisite dinnerware and wood-fired pieces—many made with foraged materials like local clay and stone—out of a 17th-century building adjacent to the castle. It’s only a 10 minute drive from the castle to Casavells where you’ll find a satellite of Barcelona’s Alzueta Gallery The 16th century farmhouse is transformed into a gallery of contemporary art.
