Best afternoon tea for: A classic in a spectacular historic setting
An offshoot of the Piccadilly original, this is Fortnum & Mason with a twist. The trademark eau de nil is there—on velvet seats and leather booths—but the majestic 16th-century setting in London’s financial district lends it an even grander air, as though tea sippers are members of an elite secret society. The impressive stone-and-column façade of the Royal Exchange betrays the building’s trade roots. Boutiques sit beneath huge arches; the newest, a mini Fortnum’s, now takes up three shop fronts. At the center of the vast courtyard is a giant almond-shaped bar, a glittering metal oasis ringed by mint-green stools, each pair lit with individual gold lamps. Two small seating areas bookend the bar, and it almost feels like you’re outside, with light pooling through the glass ceiling.
Tea is the most crucial element of Fortnum’s tradition, given that the brand has been producing its own (and, later, serving it) for about 300 years. But you won’t find its breakfast blend on the menu here; instead, opt for the Royal Exchange, a light Sri Lankan and Kenyan loose-leaf tea that represents this cool new base, or—better yet—Champagne.
Afternoon tea stands are brought down a flight of stone steps from a faraway corner of the courtyard, almost “off stage”; as they are set down on the table, it’s clear this is the main event. First are simple finger sandwiches filled generously with egg and cress, Suffolk cured ham, coronation chicken, and smoked trout. Then soft, warm plain and fruit scones are accompanied by clotted cream, strawberry jam, and lemon curd—Fortnum’s own, naturally. The finale is a dazzling array of patisserie cakes.
While the afternoon tea was undeniably pleasant, the historic surroundings make the new Fortnum’s a worthwhile pit stop. And despite the serene, exclusive vibe, this offering is brilliantly affordable. Like the City crowd, stop here for a sweet reviver following an afternoon’s hard work, then browse the foodie delights in the enticing shop. —Leah Craig
Address: The Courtyard, The Royal Exchange, London EC3V 3LR
Website: theroyalexchange.co.uk
Price: From 38 British pounds per person (or about $52)
