You may remember the original scenes Sex and the CityYou know you’re in Manhattan when you see the four protagonists, all dressed to the nines with Cosmopolitans on their hands, glide from an upscale bar into a trendy new dining area. That’s exactly the feeling I had as I was led to my seat at La Tête d’Or, Monsieur Daniel Boulud’s hot new New Yorkais temple to, if not exactly steaks, then the steakhouse experience.
During my visit on an otherwise ordinary weekday night, the decadent fare and hyper-polished staff were spectacular—as in, resembled spectacles: Chariots of prime rib ($130) whizzed about the place, dispensing 10 ounces of American wagyu ribeye cut, dressed, and served table-side by servers with a flourish that befit the price tag. Though, given that an order automatically comes with accompaniments—bordelaise and béarnaise sauces; spinach and potatoes, both creamy; and a peppered popover—it can feel like a steal, especially with the lavish attention it gets you from the crew and your co-diners. The patron would often point at the prime rib on another table and say “I want what she has.”
Aside from the show’s star, scrumptious too are the recurring cast you’d find at a steak joint: the bone marrow, the crab cake, the Caesar salad—also prepped and served tableside. While the dishes here are the types over which life-changing deals are brokered—corporate, romantic, or otherwise—I didn’t notice such contracts being negotiated over La Tête d’Or’s white tablecloths (mind you, the cavernous space is seemingly built for people-watching). All present were simply fêting the good life in New York City, this stage that makes one and all feel like the main character. —Matt Ortile
