You can also contact us by clicking here.Victorious glides silently, gliding on three enormous maroon sails. Around us, the grey sea and sky are all that can be seen. The view from every angle is different: fluffy blue clouds, blue-black billowing clouds, and occasional rays or sunshine shining into the Wash.
“It feels like she was made for these waters.” One of my five sailors, who is also a fellow sailor, says it’s “magical”. We’re bringing potatoes from Fosdyke’s Fenland to Norfolk and will fill the 42ft shrimping boat’s hold with extra food when we get to King’s Lynn.
I’m more of a supernumerary sailor than a sailor. I don’t know anything about sails, knots, or ropes. But if sailing is what you’re doing, then it’s beautiful and thrilling. We are at one with the sea, riding the wind and waves like birds, and we even get a visit from a peregrine swooping past our mast in brooding threat.
-
The Wash is an expansive and unpredictable tidal river with thinly submerged sandbanks that are treacherous. As well as the views of low Lincolnshire and Norfolk coastline, mirages appear and vanish.
Then everything changes. The waves chop and the wind blows. A squall. Victorious lurches. A sail sounds like thunder. We are taking on too much air. Everyone jumps into action. I am asked to untie one set of ropes, and to bring the stay-sail around to the portside. The wind chill makes it extremely cold. My waterproofs don’t work; my numb fingers won’t obey me. The deck pitches crazily. My sail is loose, writhing and moving like a wild animal. A rope is wrapped around my leg in the shape of a snake. I almost fall. Waves wash over the deck. I’m really afraid we’ll capsize, or more likely I’ll fall overboard.
All began so peacefully. Victorious was waiting for us in an electric van. It is the first time she has been out on the sea since her restoration, a two-year epic effort led by Henry Chamberlain founder of the Coastal Exploration CompanyWells-next-the-Sea is home to a company that offers nature-friendly sailing tours on old, beautiful boats.
I have a two-day mission to transport potatoes from Fenland Field in Norfolk north, where they are going to be made into chips. Eric’s Fish & Chips. Henry had a chat with Eric Snaith The madness of Lincolnshire potatos being transported by diesel trucks hundreds of miles to the south, then returned to Norfolk.
Henry, an ex-royal marine and former UN worker in Afghanistan who sails with the UN crew, seems to be overqualified for this spring’s trip. Nick is a serious, focused sailor who has just completed a transatlantic voyage. David has raced round the Isle of Wight. Laura has sailed around the Southern Ocean. Pete, our photographer, served as a lifeboatman at the Wash. He knows the dangers of the Wash.
The weather is grey and calm, as we set off at high tide along with Mermaid. A fishing smack which another enthusiast had restored. These two boats represent the second-third of the Wash fishing boats that are still in existence. The graceful wooden sailing boats were replaced with cruder diesel-powered boats and thrown away in the 1980s.
We’re in good cheer. Laura makes bacon for breakfast while David prepares ropes. Victorious, the powerful aircraft, flies at 9.3 knots. Mermaid is far behind us. “It’s like every disaster movie – they start out light-hearted and fun,” jokes Henry.
The Wash estuary is vast and unpredictable. The water is often a brilliant blue, but can also be a yellowish hue with thinly submerged sandbanks. Mirages and views of low Lincolnshire coast and Norfolk coast appear and vanish.
It’s all hands to the deck when a squall strikes, including my useless ones. Mermaid is taking water in, her bowsprit broke and the backup engine failed. We are halfway across the Wash during a storm. We must now turn back and assist. The waves are lessening when we arrive, but the sea is too rough to move any passengers. After several hours, we wait until it is clear that she won’t be taking in any more water. She’s then towed to Fosdyke at high tide. We turn back and head east to King’s Lynn.
We are more conservative this time and have a slower pace. The mood has changed. The mast creaks softly. Sailing is the greatest thing! I became marginally less incompetent at some very minor rope tasks and made myself useful by washing up.
-
Henry Chamberlain and Eric Snaith of Norfolk Chip Shop discussed the absurdity of Lincolnshire potatoes being transported by diesel trucks hundreds of miles to southern distribution centres before being returned to Norfolk.
We turn south and enter the tranquility Bulldog Channel. A spoonbill crosses over the bows. I’m thrilled when we reach the port at King’s Lynn. My body feels like I’m still at sea, and my body sways for several more hours. We load up Victorious with more cargo (Norfolk Natural Living). perfumery products Sandringham, a product made in King’s Lynn but sold in Wells apple juiceThen, head to the Crown and Mitre For a welcome pint. It’s never been so delicious to eat fish and chips. My hands are pink and swollen; I dry off my clothes on the pub’s radiator.
On Victorious we sleep on mats under deck. The cooling air and gentle slopping of the tide is refreshing. I wake up at 5.30am after the best sleep of my life. I enjoy a stroll in Lynn’s old town, which is still untouched and historic.
The second day sail is smooth and glorious. The dark clouds are gathering to the North, and now I’m scared of what might happen. But there’s not a sudden squall. Just a slowly rising swell. As the front moves through, we get to see the marshes of north Norfolk, as well as its beaches and islands. We brave the six-foot waves to shoot into Wells harbour The sun emerges that evening.
Victorious is greeted warmly by local businesses, passersby and children who eagerly assist in bringing our cargo to shore. The words “A Safe Haven”, on the Wells town sign, used to seem a little odd. But now I see their true meaning.
This two-day voyage feels like a life lived to the fullest; highs and lows, teamwork discomfort, safety, one of the best experiences of my past two decades. Now I have to learn how sail and buy proper waterproofs.
Coastal Exploration Company Offers a range of sailing experiences On restored fishing boats in Wells-next-the-Sea. Victorious sails two-day cargo voyages between Fosdyke and King’s Lynn, as well as Wells-next-the-Sea. £175 per person Daily rate (excluding any extras like transportation or hotel stays).
