‘MIn the 1940s my grandmother, a young widow, bought this piece of land in order to plant a vineyard. It’s the place where she made her wine.“ says Pepa Fernández proudly, pointing towards a weathered building no bigger than a garden shed. We are standing on a chalky path, between two fields. Poppies, daisies and Thistles line the road. The first field is lined by neat rows with lush vines. The second has small bush vines which will soon be bearing monastrell (the dominant variety here). A sandy-coloured mountain range with pine trees is visible in the distance. The sky is clear and blue.
Pepa the Pocket-sized is the face Bodega BalconaThe family-run winery is located in Murcia, Spain’s southern-eastern region. The vineyard lies in the picturesque Aceniche valley, in Bullas – one of Murcia’s three wine DOPs (denominaciónes de origen protegidaEach has its own wine route, scattered with museums and vineyards. Each wine route has museums and vineyards scattered throughout.
We are visiting Murcia to discover the food and drink culture after an old friend grew up there. (Murcia is both the name of the province and the capital). Last year, the province was home to two of Spain’s top culinary events: Repsol Guide Soles gala The Michelin Guide Gala.
“Murcia is a food city that has a lot to offer.,” On my way to the tasting area, I am told by a suave Granada man in a fedora. As we taste through the earthy natural wines of Bodega Balcona, we learn that they are also pretty special. Each glass is paired to national and regional dishes such as cold cuts, local cheeses (almonds), tuna empanadas made by Pepa’s niece, and a Murcian classic. pastel de carne – a hearty meat and egg pie topped with flaky pastry.
Then, we head to the nearby Salto del Usero falls, where teenagers and kids are lizard-like, sunning themselves. Following a quick dip in the chilly plunge pool, we go to meet Paco Franciso Muñoz Reales, who runs an organic farm nearby with his German wife, Heidi.
Paco, a laid-back local with a soft voice, is a member of the local cooperative of growersPepa and other farmers are using ecological farming techniques. He admits that there was initially some tension between him and the local farmers but now things are much more peaceful. He shows me his five-hectare property, which includes a seed bank hidden inside a pantry. There are also rows of apricots, lemon, olive, and lime trees and a tomato field.
Murcia, also known as the garden of Europe or Murcia, is home to around 20% of Spain’s fruit and vegetable exports. This agricultural legacy is the result of a vast network or fertile gardens. HurtosAround the Plaza de las Flores, you’ll find baroque architecture, palm-lined riversides, and bustling tapas bars. La Huerta de Murcia – as it is known – also influences the local food culture. Sundays are reserved for family dinners in rustic restaurants.
Every spring, the city throws a festival. Bando de la Huerta festival – a lively celebration of rural life where locals don traditional dress and feast on regional dishes. We arrive a few weeks later, so instead visit the rustic El Cañal Los Almillas restaurant, where we tuck into There are plates of fresh tomato salads with olives, lettuce, and lemons (Murcianos put lemons on everything). The classic Murcian dish of deep-fried, crispy prawns is served as a dessert. Paparajotes – battered lemon leaves served with a dollop of ice-cream.
The restaurant’s name is derived from the canal system of the city, which dates back to Moorish time. “Imagine the Segura River as the heart, and the canals as the veins that carry the blood.“ our guide, Antonio, explains.
David López, the chef at the fine-dining restaurant Local de EnsayoWhen he shows us his house,, explains how these ancient systems continue to be used today. huerto. López visits his patch daily, growing everything from lettuce, beans and cucumber to strawberries and aubergines. In traditional Murcian cuisine, fruit and vegetables are prominent in dishes like ensalada murciana (tomato salad containing tuna, olives, and eggs) arroz con verduras (rice with vegetables)
“It has become a part of my life, I love to bring the kids there and they can watch plants grow.“ López says while trudging through the mud, checking his crops. Only 20% of his restaurant’s produce comes from his own garden. The rest is supplied by a local ecological farmer who runs a stand at Verónicas marketThe city’s largest supplier of fruit, vegetables and meat is.
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López and his wife, Carmen, show us around the market, pointing out local delicacies like mújol (mullet), almendra marcona (almonds), langostino del Mar Menor (Langoustines), alficoz Curly cucumber is a type. We finish at Café Bar VerónicasThe bar looks just like any other local pub: shelves of pickled veggies and wine and loud chattering by the locals. Framed newspaper reviews, however, hint at more..
Samuel Ruiz, his wife Isabel Torrecillas are the owners. The young chef with tattoos could be Spain’s Anthony Bourdain. Ruiz was trained by the renowned El Bulli. He is responsible for Kome, one of Murcia’s most exciting restaurants. “No social media. They had no website. Nothing. The queue is still there.,” Torrecillas tells us. Ruiz chose to close Kome, and go back to his roots by opening an Barra As she serves up a dish of delicious food, she describes how the plate is twisted in the center of town. caballito It lands on the plate. It’s a popular local dish that usually includes prawns fried in oil, but this time it is made with crayfish. Then, a large bowl of crayfish is served. MarineraIt is a Russian-style anchovy salad served with crispy bread and homemade Mayo.
When I ask Ruiz which sauce he is plating, he squirts some on the back of my hands. “Try it,” He smiles with confidence. It’s a delicious homemade mayonnaise made with saffron and anchovy.. Moments later, his bar next door sends him a frozen umbrella cocktail. Colmado San Julián.
We finish up and say our goodbyes before wandering over to López’s restaurant. We enter and he disappears without saying a word. We are seated in front of a window looking into the kitchen. Dishes soon arrive at the table from his excellent tasting menu (from about £65), which champions local, seasonal ingredients. Standout plates include a wild mushroom dish packed with umami, a deep-flavoured red Calasparra rice with vegetables, and his excellent signature dessert, a cross between a flan and a crème brûlée (a favourite of the legendary Spanish food critic José Carlos Capel).
We drive 45 minutes outside of town the next day. Casa Borrego – a cosy eight-room gastronomic hotel with soft bucolic rooms and a burbling beck outside. Dinner is a modern take on Murcian food, with a variety of dishes. Pani puri Balls exploding from tuna and rabbit rice in a huge pan. We’re lulled into sleep by the sounding of trickling waters as we retire to our beds. The next morning, as our time in Murcia is coming to an end, we return to the city and hunt for one last dish. zarangollo, a simple courgette-and-egg scramble. It is served at a tapas restaurant called Bodegón Los Toneles – all jamón Legs and chalkboard Menus
This time, we end our trip with a local tipple. CaféLab. Asiático is a heady blend of condensed milk, Licor 43, cognac and spices – said to hail from Cartagena. Like Murcia’s cuisine, its richness lies in the subtle layers – each one revealing something original, unexpected and distinctly its own.
The trip was organized by Turismo de Murcia. Sercotel Amistad Murcia has doubles from around €60 room-only; Casa Borrego has doubles from €120 B&B
