It is a good idea to use a different language.Sometimes it’s impossible to take a vacation, but you can’t ignore the longing to get away from the everyday pressures. We found a way to spend the bank holiday weekend with our 13-year-old son, despite the fact that there were no suns in sight on our weather app. My family, along with two of my sons friends, drove two hours west to Devon. We would stay near the sea and go swimming and cycling, as well as playing Perudo. Then we’d sit around a fire and eat birthday cake while eating. The next day, we’d be back home. We would be partying 24 hours a day. We’d be rocking out all the time.
Discovering was the catalyst Brandy Head Google Maps scroll. This little box, which looks like a mini hostel and sleeps six people, has a double bed and two twin bunks. It also has a shower and an open plan living, dining, and kitchen area. This terrace perched 60m above sea-level is its main selling point. With gulls’ eye views of the ocean, it makes you feel like you are riding a huge wave.
Those views now bring a steady stream of guests to Brandy Head, but in the past they brought the RAF – the building was originally put up in 1940 as an observation post for the top secret Gunnery Research Unit based at RAF Exeter. Prof Sir Bennett Melvill Jones is said to have perfected his revolutionary aircraft gunnery sights here, which helped the allied forces achieve superiority at D-day. Brandy Head was restored from dereliction by Nell Walker and Sam Walker in partnership with Clinton Devon Estates. They were tenants at Stantyway Farm next door.
It was not only a stay rich in military history that would entertain the boys, but also a close proximity to Haldon Forest Park, where mountain-biking and paddleboarding are popular, as well as two beaches, for swimming and paddling, and an ice cream supply.
We stopped at Haldon Forest Park on the way – and the boys and my husband, Richard, collected their pre-booked bikes and sped off along the park’s trails to hurtle over jumps, bridges and boardwalks. I switched pedals to hiking boots and headed for Canonteign FallsA 15-minute drive will bring you to another hidden gem.
Canonteign, a collection lakes, woodlands walks, gardens, a café, and an adventure playground, is home to the highest waterfall south-west England. The late 19th-century waterfall is a showpiece, but its real beauty lies in the Victorian fern garden that surrounds it. It was largely forgotten until it was restored by the owners and Julian Reed, a fern expert. The fern garden now forms a magical glade, where children can hunt for fairies.
After a ride, it was difficult to leave the otherworldly place, but we had to return the boys. Once reunited, it was only a 30-minute drive to the coast, with the car’s back smelling of flat batteries and post-ride exhaustion. As we snaked down lanes bursting with red campion and cow parsley, and drove through villages thatched with bunting, I felt like I was driving back to the 1950s.
Nell left instructions to collect the keys at Stantyway Farm honesty cafe. The former Royal Navy container is now stocked up with tea, coffee and homemade flapjacks as well as squash, dog biscuits and other goodies. There is an option to park here and walk along a slightly longer path, but we chose to walk to the end lane. From there, it was a 10 minute walk up a fairly steep coastal pathway to Brandy Head.
Alex, Alex’s friend, said, “This is amazing,” pointing out a display under a plastic top table on the terrace of the building, a reminder of the ammunition tests that were also conducted here during World War II. Owen, a newly-teenager, raced to claim the top bunk. We had just put the supplies in the kitchen, and were slouched on the couch when a head appeared at the doorway. “Oh, can we look inside?” Nell warned us that the terrace and visitors are as important as each other. The terrace is a great feature of this hotel. South West Coast Path The front of the building is lined with benches and a water tap. While many hikers book Brandy Head, other guests stop by to refill their bottles or rest. This is not the place to stay if you are looking for privacy, but it was a funky overnight stop.
Lucas, Lucas’ friend, announced, “Beach time” after the walkers were gone. Lucas had sliders and a towel on his back, and was urging the others to leave the door. After turning east, the walk was about 20 minutes. Ladram BayWe hopped on pebbles and then jumped into the cool, bracing water.
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After enjoying bowls of warm chilli and birthday cake at Brandy Head we piled in the field behind the house and lit the firepit. Guests could watch the sun set from the firepit. The boys all agreed that the place was cool, and then went back to the house to play cards.
The next day we had tea on the balcony at dawn, listening to blackbirds and skylarks. We walked through the countryside to Budleigh Salterton. River Otter Estuary nature reserveWe kept an eye out for beavers, sandpipers, and otters. We watched the boys whoop as they caught the chilly swoosh of more waves – and ate pasties from a kiosk on the beach before driving home.
Richard and myself sat in the dimming light by the firepit to listen to the waves below. Stantyway’s wildlife-friendly policy meant that the land, which was once used for military training, is now a habitat for animals. cirl buntings And peregrines. And those humans lucky enough to visit – even if just for one night.
Brandy Head Observation Post sleeps six people and costs £180 for one night and £120 Each night
