Ischia is Italy’s best-kept secret

I couldn’t help but think of the feeling I had when I stood in line for a theme park. The air was filled with anticipation and anxiety, as well as the sweet, faint smell of sunscreen. The relentless heat of August made the children fidget. But we took it all in stride because a big payoff—in this case, that roller coaster high of a fabulous Italian island vacation—was waiting on the other side.

My family and I, fresh off the plane, looked a little rumpled compared to the sun-kissed Italians who were dressed in tight jeans and bold t-shirts with swinging sundresses. Rob, my husband, shook his head as he hefted our suitcases into the ferry. While we were inside, the luggage of other passengers roasted. With a cup of coffee in my hand, I felt the weight of my shoulders fall an inch or so. Rob and Bobby, our son, also began to relax.Andiamo!” I replied. Then we took off.

Arriving at Ischia

It was our second trip to IschiaA destination with a lot to offer in just 18 square miles. The island, a volcanic speck at the bottom of the cobalt Tyrrhenian Sea is marked by vertiginous road, healing hot springs and lush landscapes. Famous landmarks include the Castello Aragonese—a Game of Thrones-esque fort and settlement, with roots dating to the 5th century BC—located off the village of Ischia Ponte. Poseidon Gardens is a huge wellness center and thermal resort with 20 natural swimming pool.

The Ristorante La Pace Alla Scarrupata is a casual tavern that you can reach from the water. Wear your best cover up. Lured there by the promise of sangria and simply grilled fish, many plan to stay for an hour-long lunch—and end up leaving after four have passed. 

Now we’re loyal to the Regina IsabellaThe resort is a 121 room hotel that gently slopes up a hill on the northwest coast of the island. Lacco Ameno, Ischia’s most scenic town, has casual restaurants and colorful shops that sell everything from pasta to pottery. It also boasts stunning views of the ocean. Italian families think nothing of letting their children wander freely, even at the delightfully late hour of 11 p.m. For an overscheduled New York City kid like Bobby, having the freedom to move on his own terms is just as intoxicating as eating chocolate and almond cake for breakfast—something we all indulged in at the resort’s open-air DolceVita restaurant, which serves an extraordinary buffet of fresh pastries, cheeses, and meats. 

The Regina Isabella, built in 1950 by Angelo Rizzoli, still attracts loyal, regular guests who request the same rooms year after year. The staff—a mostly Ischian crew—somehow manage to be both formal and relaxed. At dinner, waiters dressed in starched coats pour local dry wines and serve a generous portion of pasta made from scratch. Raffaele Montefusco is the concierge who knows everything. He will write down each restaurant recommendation and give it to you on a separate sheet, with a big smile.

In both of our visits to Ischia, we only encountered a handful Americans, which was surprising given the island’s proximity with glitterati Capri. But Ischia—which once attracted Hollywood royalty including Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, on a break from filming Cleopatra, and still lures the likes of Robert DeNiro—isn’t really for the attention-seekers. Taylor and Burton are the only exception: according to rumor, she threw her husband’s clothes in the Regina Isabella pool from their balcony. 

Giancarlo Carrero, the owner of the Regina Isabella and a welcoming, watchful presence in the resort during the summer, explained that other locations, such as Capri or Positano, have become too crowded or expensive in recent years. Carriero has been the owner of the Regina Isabella for 45 years and continues to improve the property in order to meet the needs of the modern traveler. A Roman spa—equipped with two pools, a traditional Rasul steam room, and a cryotherapy chamber—is being added to the existing space, which already offers everything from mud wraps and restorative messages to inhalation therapies and detox programs. The legacy details are what really stand out. Rizzoli personally selected the brightly colored “Stingo”, Neapolitan tiles that cover the original floors. My favorite is the Neapolitan-style playing cards in the old card room. Real linen sheets are on the bed and they’re always pressed perfectly.

It is not just for the one percent. Elena Ferrante’s novel My Brilliant Friend, the characters dream big on crescent-shaped Maronti Beach—the island’s longest stretch of sand, near the humming town of Barano. Maronti Beach is accessible via a twisting road. A number of charming but more modest accommodations surround it. The well-appointed Hotel Parco Smeraldo Terme & Residence, for instance, is where we opted for an alfresco lunch of pesto pasta and grilled fish. The small beach club with its healing spa and attentive service matches the quality of the cuisine. 

A kaleidoscope umbrellas and chairs are tightly clustered on the pebbly beach of Maronti. They’re so close, you could read your neighbour’s novel. The children scream in delight. You may be knocked off your feet by the waves, but you might get help from a stranger.

A Island Worth Exploring 

Armani, Miu Miu and Pucci are yet to open flagship boutiques on Ischia. It’s possible that this is a good thing. I enjoy wandering through the streets, popping into shops such as Gioielleria Cataneo in Casamicciola Terme, or pharmacies, toys, and jewelry stores that are unique. Alessandro Cataneo is the owner of the shop. His grandfather, who moved to Ischia for Ischia Island in 1954, was Alessandro’s grandfather. Cataneo’s stunning rings, earrings, and necklaces are mostly fashioned from coral, though in recent years, he has been focusing on cameos—jewelry that features a relief carving. 

Cataneo said, “While it is important to have an eye on tradition and offer vintage coral pieces, I try to satisfy my customers who prefer a modern style.” In the spring of this year, he teamed up with Carolina to produce a series of limited-edition sandals featuring cameos. Customers who are looking for something custom can choose their cameo at Cataneo, then go to Carolina, where they will see the shoes being made. 

Il Tarlo carries estate jewellery, Sergio Modamare has linen shirts and dress that are affordable and Mario d’Ischia offers custom leather sandals. This family-run shop has a variety of leather ribbons and patterns on display. Customers can also get custom shoes within a few days. I go there with the intent to only buy one pair of shoes, but end up buying three.

It seems fitting that the shop is now doing a collaboration with Issimo—a commerce, lifestyle, and editorial brand created by Marie-Louise Sciò, the CEO and Creative Director of Pellicano Hotels Italy, which counts Ischia’s Mezzatore Hotel & Thermal Spa As part of its portfolio. Scio transformed the 48-room property in 2019, which included a centuries-old unfinished watchtower into a stylish, modern resort. The resort features a whimsical dining area with a tented roof, an expertly curated shop, and a pool that is perched above a bay. “I adore how Ischia perfectly balances past and present, evoking the carefree elegance of the 1970s,” Sciò said. She also told me that more guests are now choosing to stay well into October—something not as common in the past. Maybe it’s the weather or a desire for a slower pace. It doesn’t matter what season you choose to visit, you will find respite at Bar La Torre, particularly during the aperitivo, when the sun sets and gives the hotel a soft rose-colored glow.

Other island entrepreneurs have upped their game since Mezzatore arrived, with various improvements. The 65-room San Montano Resort & SpaThe interiors of the, which offer panoramic views from Mount Vico’s top, have been reimagined by innovative architects Rino Gamardella and Claudio Pulicati. A new two-bedroom Lighthouse Suite with a living room enclosed in glass, sleeping up to six, is located at the highest point in the resort. Francesco De Siano said that when creating the Lighthouse Suite they wanted their guests to feel at home. Faro Punta Imperatore is a hotel that will be opened in July 2023. It’s also situated in a historical lighthouse. Renovated over the course of seven years, it now has a rooftop terrace and bar, along with four contemporary suites—ideal for a buyout.

Lisola Restaurant, located in Forio (also on the northwest coast of the Island), serves up some of the best pizzas we’ve ever tasted. It was created by a group of Italians: Federico de Majo from Veneto, Nino Di Costanzo, Ivano Veccia, founder of Zafferano lighting and glassware, and Federico de Majo. (Di Costanzo also created Ischia’s fine dining spot Daní Maison.) The open concept kitchen let us see the chefs at work, making fried, Roman and Neapolitan pizzas. The fashionable crowd sat on the outdoor dining area and ate the pizzas while taking photos of the sea.  

Ischia is known for its desire to secure a table with an amazing view. So, for our last meal, I decided to go to Da MariaThe casual restaurant has a view of Castello Aragonese. After calling in advance for a boat taxi from Ischia Ponte we were transported to Da Maria’s pier and welcomed into the open air dining room that faces the Gulf of Naples. The castle was lit up. We ate spaghetti vongole, penne puttanesca, swordfish, prawns and clams. 

We even convinced Bobby, a fussy eater, to try rabbit cooked in tomatoes, oil, garlic—simple, yet key ingredients found right in the Italian pantry. To our surprise, Bobby ate it all. Perhaps it was because we allowed him to stay up late the previous night.