‘FThe walking notes of today describe “amazing views and beautiful scenery.” I don’t doubt it. Now, the mist is creeping up the ridge and the wind has picked up. There’s not much to see except the ground beneath us. My attention is therefore drawn to what I will call a “canine deposit”.
“But, there are no dogs here.” Since that little yappy monkey in the last village, it’s been just over two hours. There are no humans in the wild terrain, not even a dog walker. The size, shape, and furiness of the trailside offering reveal that its author is the ancestor to all dogs, a wolf.
It’s useless to use my binoculars in the mist. Besides, not even a self-respecting, blue-skyed wolf will just stand around to be gawked. It’s exciting to see them, and that Europe’s top predator, which was once driven from Portugal, has made a comeback. This must be their calling card, as two packs roam the hills.
It’s mid-April, and my wife and I are tramping through Peneda-Gerês national park, in northern Portugal, on day two of a six-day walk with On Foot Holidays. The route winds through the mountains, forests and meadows of the southern region, from the small hamlet Soajo, to the monastery Santa Maria do Bouro. The hike is a good one, but our bags will be transported to the retreat each morning by road, so all we have to carry are day packs.
The park was designated in 1971 and is located not far from the popular Douro Valley, but it is off the tourist track. It is still the only national parks in Portugal. It’s also steeped with history: the Romans first laid the trail, when they marched up north in 200BC to subdue hostile Celtic Tribes and consolidate their hold on Iberian Peninsula.
The weather is unpredictable this early in the year. (May, early-June, late-September and October are some of the best times to go). We arrive in Porto to showers, scuttling from Dom Luís Bridge to Clérigos Tower, then ducking into the Benedictine monastery for a fado (traditional Portuguese music) performance – which reduces us to tears, despite not understanding a word. The skies cleared the next morning. And when we arrive in Soajo – two hours from Porto by train and taxi – we find its stone walls bathed in afternoon sunshine. Fallen oranges litter the cobbles, and a hoopoe intones its hoop, hoop refrain from the church tower beside our B&B.
On our first day’s walking we strike out south, armed with a hefty packed lunch that includes a slab of traditional Pão de Ló Easter cake from our Soajo host’s family bakery. Our route snakes through mossy woodlands full of birdsong. We cross tumbling rivers over ancient stone bridges. And we traverse airy moorland flanks where Dartford wall lizards avoid our approaching boots and Iberian warblers shout from the heather.
We’ve been able to find our rhythm quickly. In just one day, we’ve covered over 11.5km. On Foot’s trail notes and maps are the best way to navigate. Their app provides digital back-up, and reassurance comes from the red-and-white way-markers daubed on rocks and tree trunks – helpful, as not once do we meet another hiker to set us straight.
For night two, we’re staying in a charming cottage overlooking the hillside of Lindoso Village. espigueiros – the traditional grain stores, raised on stone pillars and crowned with crucifixes, emblematic of this region. At Casa do Destro we eat the first baked goods of the week. bacalhau (salted cod), Grelos (turniptops) washed down by a gentle fizz from a local vinho verde.
On the second day of our journey, we find ourselves in a completely different country. A wild landscape is revealed by brief breaks in the clouds and drizzle. It’s a huge, intimidating place that seems more suited for wolves rather than hikers. At one point, the mist parts around a huge ridgetop boulder that appears – to me, at least – uncannily like a wolf’s head.
The weather is a bit erratic today, and it’s the toughest day of our entire week. It ends happily in our most luxurious bolthole. After almost 23km we reach the tiny hamlet Brufe and collapse in the embrace of Leiras do Tempo. After two nights, we have time to rest up, dry our gear, and take in the scenery.
The next morning, without any urgency to get moving, we enjoy a leisurely breakfast before departing for the Casarotas trap. The hike on our itinerary is described as “optional”, however, the name of the place was so intriguing that we couldn’t resist. Soon we were walking uphill through yellow gorse and bristle in the sunshine.
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On the summit we find fojoThe wolf-trap is a trap made of dry stone walls that descend a steep hillside in v-shape, convergent on a hidden pit. It is believed to have been built in the 18th century. Two dry-stone walls descend a steep slope in a V shape, convergent on a secret pit. Farmers who were afraid for their cattle drove wolves into the pit to be killed. The walls of the old buildings are now covered in lichen. The wolves have returned. It was clear that they were playing a game of long-term strategy.
Two days later, we descend even deeper into history. Soon after departing our overnight at Campo de Gerês (more bacalhau; more espigueiros), we join the Roman road – a two person-wide granite contour path that winds south through deep woods of oak and pine. Occasional information plaques and life-sized metal cut-outs of legionaries confirm that we’re on the right track – as do the more ancient milestones left by the Romans themselves.
As the woods take us in, with very little modernity to break their spell, we can easily imagine the imperial forces that marched here. Rainwater run-off has transformed some areas into rivers, transforming the cobblestones. My wife says, “It must have been difficult to do this in sandals.”
I am also a fan of the animals from yesterday. Back then, there were wolves and bears. Today, leaf litter excavations betray the presence of wild boars, while the long-horned barrosã Cattle that browse through the bracken bring to mind the wild aurochs who once roamed this area. Nature has other smaller surprises: a golden oriole darting through the canopy. Orchids adorning a hidden hayfield. A fire salamander on a track. Its vivid black and white is a clear warning to not touch.
On day six, it’s the early afternoon when the towers at the Mosteiro de Amares are visible. This Cistercian 12th-century monastery in Santa Maria do Bouro, Portugal is now a chic pousada. It’s the end of our journey. There is much to explore here – cloisters, orange groves, a pool – and tonight we will dine sumptuously beneath the high stone ceilings. For now, we relax in our room and enjoy a complimentary port. Beyond our window, the mountains are visible. We didn’t see wolves, but I’d like to think wolves saw us – and that’s good enough for me.
The trip was organized by On Foot Holidays. The The Roman Road to Santa Maria Monastery Route Costs from £940 for seven nightsIncluded B&B, lunches, luggage transfers, Maps and Route NotesGPS companion app. and local support Braga is less than an hours train ride from Porto. Buses run every 45 minutes from Porto Airport
