You can also find out more about WWhat is the UK’s best mountain scene? I was nine when we went up Yr Wyddfa.SnowdonIt was the best. It was difficult to see anything except the backs other people. Scafell Pike received the same treatment the summer after, and Ben Nevis was climbed the following year. I disagreed with all of them. Thorpe Cloud, in Dovedale, was the best, even though it is only a little over a thousand foot tall. I was convinced by the shape of this tiny peak in Derbyshire: a rounded summit with lots of room all around plus steep grassy slopes to roll down. The champion trio couldn’t compare.
As I start my hike up Slieve Donard (850m), Northern Ireland’s tallest peak, but one that is often overlooked by UK hikers when listing their achievements. This is a proper mountain, with a view that rivals the more famous rivals.
Slieve donard’s relative invisibility outside Northern Ireland is understandable. During the Troubles visitor numbers dropped and many locals stopped going on country walks. Belfast is just an hour north of the mountains. “We’ve never been there,” says one Belfaster. “A roadsign with an image of a gunman is not very inviting.”
The Mourne Mountains made a great comeback since that tragic time, appearing in many episodes as part of Westeros, along with other locations in Northern Ireland, in the HBO series Game of Thrones. Game of Thrones TV series
I set off from the eastern side, at a spot called Bloody Bridge – named after a massacre in the 1641 rebellion – where there are crystal clear pools in the river before it tumbles into the sea. The path gradually climbs, passing through a stone quarry and reaching a saddle of over 500m where a massive wall leads directly up the mountain. This is the Mourne WallThe 22-mile feat of human effort crosses 15 peaks. It was built between the years 1904 and 1920 to keep sheep from entering the central Mournes area, where there were several reservoirs for Belfast. The site is now the venue of an annual racing event and serves as a landmark in misty weather. The climb is also steep. I avoid looking at the view because it will be spectacular.
You can calculate the maximum distance that you can see by multiplying the square of the height (in metres) by 3.57. It isn’t the definitive answer. Distanced peaks on the horizon may raise their tops, and light refraction can vary around the Earth. This allows the maximum distance to be extended. The official ground-to-ground view distance record is 300 miles in 2023 between two Argentinian Mountains. My personal record was a glimpse from Alpes-Maritimes of Monte Cinto on Corsica.
I stop on the climb and, while puffing, enter the numbers into the calculator of my phone. Slieve Donard, at 850m above sea level, has a potential view range of 65 miles. This means that on a clear day, most of the British Isles should be visible.
When I reach my destination, I climb the Mourne Wall. Then, I stand by the bronze age cairn. I look to the east. Nothing. There is no Scafell Pike, no Yr Wyddfa and not a bit of Scotland or Isle of Man. The sea haze is the culprit, especially on a clear day. It’s a great summit. Perched high above the Mournes and with views of County Down to the west and south, as well as the Republic of Ireland.
I return to Newcastle via the Glen River. This sparkling stream leads me directly back to the beach, where I dive right in. Where else can you begin by the sea, then climb to the highest peak and end four or five hours later, with a dip in the sea?
Quick change and I’m off to the Percy French Restaurant In the meantime, Slieve Donard Hotel. Percy French is what I find most intriguing. French, an Irish wit and songwriter, was one of the characters who illuminated their time. He was a contemporary of Oscar Wilde, WB Yeats and regularly performed in Newcastle during the late 19th century. He wrote The Mountains o’ Mourne., but never achieved much outside Ireland. The bronze bust is on a table next to me, and I’ve decided to use one of his humorous couplets in my quest for the best panorama. “I am not as brave as lions, but I am more courageous than a hen/And the one who fights and flees will survive to fight again.”
Next Day My Goal is Slieve BinnianThe third highest peak of the range is 747m and arguably its most beautiful. There’s a blue sky again, so I hope for great views.
The route to the summit is two miles long and follows the Mourne Wall. At the top, I can see why this peak is so popular with locals: the Back Castles are a series of stunning granite towers that line the summit. I scramble to the highest point. Sea haze. A thick purple porridge covers the eastern horizon. Slieve Donard is impressive to the north east and the Mourne’s panorama is stunning. Mountains It’s a 360 that I missed, and it could not have been bettered.
I travel down the coast towards the town of Rostrevor. It was here that CS Lewis created the world of Narnia. He wrote: “I’ve seen landscapes, particularly in the Mourne Mountains southwards that under a certain light made me feel like a giant could raise his head at any moment over the next ridge.” In the Kilbroney ParkThere’s a great cafe right next to town. Synge and ByrneA Narnia Trail. The town has a beautiful high street with some traditional pubs. One of them is where I go for a beer after a disastrous panoramic.
I ask the barman whether the adjacent undertaker’s office is part of the pub. He laughs. “It made it easy to organize wakes.” It’s now closed. You’ll be surprised to know that we have plenty of ghosts. One ghost is a thrower, but he’s rarely seen. As England, Scotland, and Wales, I also reflect.
The next day is my final chance. My neighbour at my cottage suggests I try Knockchree. It is a hill with Thorpe Cloud-sized dimensions, measuring 306m. It’s a little bit apart and it makes for a beautiful view. My nine-year old self would have understood. My calculator only says that the range is 37 miles.
As I ascend through pine plantation, then heathland. On the summit, I take a seat. The Mourne Mountains and fields are in vibrant colour, and the horizon of the sea is crystal clear. I think I can see the top of Snaefell, on the Isle of Man. It’s 60 miles away. This is a great achievement, but England Scotland and Wales are no longer there. Two ancient kingdoms are within my reach: Westeros or Narnia. These will have to do.
Accommodations are provided by Sykes Holiday CottagesThe. Mournes Included in the area Carol CottageThe. Eight, from £727 for three nights. Stena Line Belfast is a popular destination for ferries Two-fold Daily from Liverpool Six-year-olds can be a great source of inspiration. Every day from Cairnryan (Stranraer). Return fare with car from £149
