I’ve been there Dominican Republic It feels like I haven’t experienced it at all. I spent the first trip lounging on an Airbnb beachfront, while my second ended when a resort guard stopped me from running outside. While my travel companions soaked up the sun, I’ve always been more of an explorer—someone who craves wandering, connecting, and discovering what makes a place tick. The long, lazy beach days are not for me.
After similar trips to St. Martin You can also read about the Bahamas, I started to wonder if the Caribbean simply wasn’t my scene—until I remembered a trip to the tiny island of Saba 15 years ago, where people kept telling me: Dominica will suit your style of travel.
Not to be confused with the Dominican Republic, the island nation of Dominica—tucked between Guadeloupe and Martinique in the Lesser Antilles—rightfully earns its nickname, The Nature Island. The island has a few white and black sands beaches, but its lush rainforests are what really define it.
I flew to Douglas-Charles Airport a couple of months back, thanks to a nonstop flight from Newark International Airport to Douglas-Charles Airport.
The road to the capital city of Roseau twisted and turned past dramatic sea cliffs and through thick, verdant forest—every turn a surprise. We passed through small villages and the canyons and hills of a National Park before finally winding up to Roseau. Fort Young Hotel.
This site, unlike many other Caribbean waterfront hotels, was built entirely in a military fortress dating back to 1699. The hotel has been around for 60 years, but the heritage it represents has been transformed into a modern, stylish, and comfortable place, with a dive center and an art gallery on site. The hotel is located across the street from downtown and embraces both the island’s culture and natural assets. I was able walk to nearby markets and coffee shops within five minutes.
Dominica was a constant source of entertainment and enticement during my 5-day stay. Its endless activities showcased its natural beauty. I was astonished by the twin cascades that ran side-by-side. Trafalgar Falls Read more about my trip to them hereThey couldn’t spend enough time at the sulfur-rich hot springs run by the family. Ti Kwen Glo ChoCreole means “little corner of the water.” Calibishie Red Rocks, a section of a barrier reef with sea caves, nooks, and crannies, where the waves break high into the air, was a stunning discovery despite the vast majority of the landscape being green.
The rowboat was a great way to enjoy the Indian River. Cobra Tours. It was like being on a real life version of Disneyland’s Jungle Cruise, with the way the foliage reflected in the water. The skipper told me the same thing just as I thought it. He pointed out the small shed to the right was exactly where the witches’ house had been in the film. Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man’s Chest. No wonder Hollywood has discovered this perfect setting.
Rachel Chang/Travel + Leisure
The people who call Dominica their home are what really touched me. There are still so many buildings that have been affected by the hurricane. Hurricane Maria in 2017There’s a quiet power in the community’s welcome spirit. This includes locals, Indigenous people, and a passionate expat community attracted to Dominica’s beauty.
Simon Walsh, the owner of Nature Island DiveHe has been rehabilitating corals infected with waterborne diseases for more than 30 years. “We’ve got corals out there with five or six scars from where we treated it … and you can see the rest of the coral is healthy and they’re spawning, creating the next generation of corals,” he told Travel + Leisure. He also started a coral-bank to preserve dozens endemic species.
Over at Paradise Valley Garden NurseryDian Douglas is a Dominica native who spent many years in New Jersey studying landscaping. He then acquired this piece of land which was half forest, half farm. “I couldn’t just sit in New Jersey”, he said. I had to go home and work on it. I couldn’t sleep because of the beauty I saw—it was an open slate to be creative with plants.”
He’s now transformed it into a tropical oasis, a botanic artifact of artistry. It is decorated with items found in the wild – from dragon statues to oversized pots. Douglas has a story—and boundless passion—for every item and every leaf, recounting how he transformed his vision into a nearly 60-acre slice of, well, paradise.
Everyone I met shared the same love for the island. The Indigenous Kalingo Community showcased their culture by recreating a traditional village. Kalinago Barana AutéA Brooklyn couple moved their young family from Brooklyn to Dominica where they now run a Homestay and make small-batch Gin using local botanicals. Sea Cliff Botanical Gin.
Staying at culminated the energy of the island Secret Bay—a longtime T+L favorite This magazine has used it on the cover numerous times. The views from the treetop villas are so expansive that you feel like you have your own corner of Dominica. A botanic garden experience was also included, where the chef cooked al fresco in front of us while he pulled ingredients and herbs from nearby. Funiculars are my obsession, and I was immediately drawn to the one that operated itself on the site. I was mesmerized by its changing views as it climbed uphill towards my Villa.
Dominica-born Gregor NassiefOver dinner, the owner of Secret Bay summarized the experience best: “In Dominica it’s the authenticity, the depth and the people that make it unique in the Caribbean.”
