The following are some of the ways to get in touch with each other:The hot spring is not marked on the map. However, I found it and drove to the end. A stone bench overlooking the sea was dedicated by someone to her parents “with gratitude as deep as Aegean”. The words are very poignant for me because my dad passed away recently. It’s great that my mother has come along with me.
We walk down the cove to a deserted beach Agia Kyriaki thermal springs. There are shuttered cottages and old fishing shacks. A rock pool with hot waters that gently bubble from the sand and mix with the ocean at a perfect temperature is found down an unmarked trail. As I float in the mineral bath, surrounded by juniper and blue skies, and soothed by cicadas and lapping waves, I take in the view.
Ikaria, in the eastern Aegean – named after Icarus, the Greek mythological figure who flew too close to the sun – is known for its forests, springs and wine, communist leanings and longevity. The 8,000-strong population is scattered across dozens and a few villages, covering 255 square kilometers. Few are dedicated to tourism and the area only gets crowded in July and August. We arrived in Agios-Kirykos, the port where we departed from Kos. (Ferries also connect Samos, Athens and Evdilos to the port at Evdilos). Then we drove north-east for a few miles to Faros. This beach has an entire mile of undeveloped shoreline without even a hotel. The house we’ve rented for our first few days, Lighthouse Lodge, is perfectly located next to a cafe-bar and two tavernas – the hot spring a few kilometres away.
While Mum reads under the shade of an tamarisk on the beach, in front of our house, I stroll around the cape covered in thyme and mastic. Drakano towerThe remains of the fortifications date back to the 4th century BC. The lofty peak of Samos and the Fourni islands are the only features in an expanse of blue – the space and light are mesmerising.
Faros Beach is a popular spot for Greek families with children. Faros beach was occupied by a few Greek families with young children until the evening. Grigoris We eat grilled sardines in a taverna. soufikoWe eat summer vegetables slowly cooked in olive oil and drink Ikarian wine. We fall asleep listening to the waves.
We explore the northern part of the Cape, swimming in turquoise clear waters. Iero bayThe cave is near where Dionysus, as legend goes, was born.
Get to know MonokampiThe forest-covered Atheras mountains, which stretch across the length of the whole island in a 40km ridge, rise to more than 1000 metres. Our route zigzags along a vertiginous hill, with cypresses peeking out from the thick forest.
We’re running late, so I call George at Moraitika Farmhouse to let him know we’re somewhere on the mountain. “Ten kilometers in Ikaria is not the same as 10km anywhere else!” He laughs. George takes us to his great-grandmother’s farm which he has lovingly restored for 15 years. Three of the houses have been converted into tourist accommodations, but the oldest, dating back to the 14th century is a living museum, complete with a fireplace for smoking food, an oven built in, and a hidden door that was used by pirates to escape. The once-cultivated terraces have been covered with a forest consisting of oak, olives, and ivy. His grandmother would walk the mountain on the footpath.
In the evening on the terrace, as the sun descends over the sea, we eat local cheese with an organic dry white wine, Begleri – all picked up en route, as we’re a long drive from a taverna. Eleonora’s falcons soar, an owl hoots, and tiny, bright glow-worms are visible.
Birds sing in the cool morning. We walk around Monokampi’s village square, which is dominated a massive plane tree. Agia Sofia, a hidden chapel built into a rocky spur. Mum points out walnut and honeysuckle trees and we pick plums and mulberries.
We drive west and descend to the coast, stopping in Karavostamo to swim and buy fresh spinach pies at the bakery. Then we continue looking for somewhere to stay the next couple of nights. We stop above an impressive beach at GialiskariThere’s a bar nearby, and the music is thumping. We continue.
You can also find out more about us on our website. NasWe pull into a taverna. We are convinced that we have found the right place after enjoying courgette fritters with herby meatballs, homemade cheesecake and sea views. After spotting a river canyon, we walk until we reach a sparkling cove and find Artemis Studio.
After Newsletter Promotion
The steps lead to the estuary with its bamboo-fringed rocks, where swallows flit. On the opposite bank, walls from an ancient harbour dominate. A ruined sanctuary was built to worship Artemis as protector of nature and animals. The water flows from the deep pine-covered Halari gorge, The paths lead in different directions. In mid-summer, the riverbed with its pink-flowering Oleander and small waterfalls is filled with wild campers. For now, quiet reigns.
We are in love with Nas. Mum swims at the lagoon, where frogs live. I swim the cold sea water that makes my skin tingle. We eat aubergine roasted with olive oil, wine, kathoura and red peppers on Artemis’s terrace as the sun sinks into the sea. Thanasis runs the taverna, which is also run by Anna, a ceramicist and shopkeeper who owns a pottery studio.
Then, enjoy a delicious breakfast of Ikarian Smoked Ham and fresh juice at the nearby Reiki cafeNext stop is the village of Agios Polykarpos. Monopati Eco Stay has stone, bamboo and wood studios with large windows that frame a beautiful view of the canyon, forest and blue sky.
The owner tells us that we can find his mother, aged 87, in the garden. Popi is beaming at us as she thins out her basil plants, despite being covered against the sun. She shows terraces with tomatoes, courgettes, and sweet potatoes. Next day, she shows me how to make a basil pesto using walnuts, sunflower seeds and sunflower seeds. She also tries to teach me to dance. ikariotikoWhen I confuse the steps, i laugh out loud.
Her philosophy is good food, good thinking and outdoor activity. She feels grateful every morning when she sees the beauty of nature. “We only have one life – we must make the most of it.”
As we say goodbye, my mum and I both feel the same exact emotion. Ikaria has been a wonderful place to spend two weeks. We return home not only refreshed by good food and rest but also inspired and energised by the vast landscapes and our time together.
Lighthouse Lodge, Faros, from £105 a night (sleeps 4(minimum three nights). Moraitika Farmhouse, Monokampi, from £55 per house (sleeps 2-4); Artemis Studio, Nas, from £40 per studio (sleeps 2); Monopati Eco Stay, Agios Polykarpos, from £80 per studio (sleeps 4-6Minimum three nights).
