You can also find out more about LBenidorm received close to 3,000,000 visitors last year. Despite its reputation as a British holiday mecca – nearly 900,000 UK travellers visited the city in 2024 – it was actually Spanish nationals who made up the largest share, with more than one million domestic visitors flocking to the Costa Blanca resort, according to Benidorm city council. I’m sure that they didn’t come for the stereotypes of pub crawls and full English breakfasts. They came for what international tourists often overlook: the everyday, authentic rhythm of Spanish life on the coast.
In a nation where tourism accounts for about 15% of GDP But has also sparked a housing shortage and countermovementsBenidorm stands out from cities such as Barcelona or Madrid, which are under intense pressure due to tourism. Benidorm’s reinvention in the 20th century as a purpose built resort was once controversial. But today, it appears to be surprisingly sustainable given the national housing crisis.
Benidorm was designed and built to handle industrial numbers of visitors – including me. I was eight years old when my family and I went on our first package holiday to Benidorm in early 1990s. I remember playing billiards late at night with a rotating group of kids. Language barriers did not matter. Their mothers – and what felt like every other señora in our 20-storey hotel – took turns pinching my cheeks.
Benidorm has always been able to accommodate large numbers of visitors, both domestic and foreign. This is without disturbing residents in the same way as other cities. Unlike the “live like a local” model that has backfired in Spain’s big cities – such that more and more apartments once meant for residents are now exclusively for tourist use, especially in Madrid, where I’ve lived for 12 years – Benidorm has absorbed demand with ease while still offering an authentic Spanish experience. I’m going to do just that.
Before the sun rises, I make my way to Poniente Beach, the quieter and localized stretch of beach just west from the old city. It’s already bustling. A dozen elderly señores are taking a refreshing, pre-breakfast dip and a group of señoras are easing into the day with a free session of group yoga. As the weather heats up, the Spanish crowd moves away from the main beach to the nearby Cala Almadraba or, further along, to Cala del Tío Ximo. These two coves are secluded and beyond the headland. Pine trees frame the crystal-clear waters. These smaller coves are largely unknown to foreign tourists, even during peak season.
When the sun reaches the highest point, many Spaniards have already begun to enjoy long lunches featuring local cuisine. At La Fava, I find a serene space where chef Fran Burgos serves elegant dishes rooted in Alicante’s coastal traditions – such as grilled aubergine with honeycomb, parmesan soup and seasonal fish – in a tranquil, whitewashed interior. For a classic Iberian diner, Casa Toni Its legs are adorned with Andalusian tiles. jamón Hanging above the bar. The refined seafood restaurant is the place to go for paella in Valencia. Ducado There are many rice dishes to choose from.
There is room for cross cultural comforts. When I wrote for Spain’s most important national newspaper about Ray’s 1, the long-established British chippy owned by a mother-daughter team (both named Teresa), it gained a new Spanish following. El País. Teresa senior told me that they have had a steady flow of Spanish clients since then. On my way to the nearby ajuntament (town hall), there is a line outside Bar El PuenteThe same family has been running a chicken rotisserie since 1968, and it attracts a majority of Spanish clients.
Calle Santo Domingo in Benidorm is well known to anyone who has been there. It’s a pedestrianised road that runs through the old town. A global clientele is drawn to this bustling Basque Pintxo Evenings are best spent in bars. A little further inland, off Avenida Ruzafa is a tapas bar that offers a more authentic Spanish experience. I squeeze into Taperia La Mina, where a bottle of house wine You can also find out more about the following: six tapas costs €11. Restaurant Aitona and El Rincón de La Croqueta Offer an equally simple experience. You can enjoy a meal that is a little quieter, but no less lively. La Mejillonera It is famous for its large, juicy plates of orange mussels.
Benidorm has a lot more to offer than sun, food and sea. It is a true Spanish city, with real stories. Marina Sanchis is one example. Casa CremàAfter being forced to leave Madrid due to skyrocketing rents, she returned home and turned her creative retreat, into a thriving space for the community. She says that Benidorm gave her what she lost in Madrid: time, space and a sense of community.
Many other Spanish artists were inspired by the coastal city and their work was featured in the free, often overlooked Museo Boca del Calvari The old town. María MoldesThe photos of Benidorm by local photographer echo those of the late Carlos Pérez Siquier. Both photographers capture the uniqueness of a city by creating surreal and saturated portraits. Their images are nearly identical, despite being taken decades apart.
Benidorm is a Spanish favourite, even online. Erik HarleyThe satirical blogger from Barcelona tells me Benidorm, his favorite city in the universe, is where he wants to be. He’ll soon launch new tours of Benidorm’s iconic skyscrapers. Mulero OK, or as he is known in Spain, is a well-dressed pensioner who plays Spanish pop music through his speaker. filming passersby dancing Alongside his decorated, slowly-gliding wheelchair.
Spanish youth are also becoming more aware of the cultural significance of their city. Benidorm Fest Spain’s official Eurovision competition is held to choose the country’s Eurovision entry. Spain’s selection process is much more serious than the UK, and I hear Melody’s voice a lot. Esa DivaThe song, which has been chosen this year as Spain’s entry, is playing on radio and in bars. The festival, which is only in its third edition, has already become an important part of the cultural calendar of Benidorm, earning it a new title as the unofficial capital for pop music.
Benidorm’s surroundings are home to many charming villages. A short tram ride from the city is the colourful town of La Vila Joiosa. Inland, El Castell de Guadalest, an ancient hilltop village in the region of Benidorm, is home to not less than eight eclectic museums and boasts stunning views of the Guadalest reservoir – one of Benidorm’s main sources of fresh water.
Benidorm is proud of its reputation as a tourist resort, but there’s much more to it than stereotypes would suggest. Benidorm’s British stereotype is appealing to me as a Brit living abroad who sometimes longs for home. But I’m also here for what has become even more familiar to me: Spanish culture, local gastronomy and a deeper sense of place – the side of Benidorm that is enjoyed by more than 1 million domestic visitors each year.
Benidorm is not an inauthentic design, even though it was built for a purpose. In a nation that struggles with overtourism. It’s a uniquely Spanish solution to a modern global challenge – and a city with space for everyone.
