Cádiz Is Among Spain’s Last Great Undiscovered Coastal Cities

The Castillo de San Sebastián, a crumbling 18th-century fortress at the end of a long causeway in Cádiz, SpainIt was behind an iron fence. The tide was low on the morning I visited in June. I noticed two fishermen wading under the high stone walls. I took my sandals off and walked around the ramparts in order to avoid slipping on the kelp. After a few minutes, I reached the other end of the fortress. There’s an incredibly beautiful tidal pool below the turrets.

There was only one surfer on the beach, Rafael. He was laying in the sun. He asked me how I felt about his hometown. I waxed lyrical about the fried prawns tortillitas, The street-corner Flamenco and the surprises hidden like this. Rafael’s knowing, wry smile told me that he was well-versed in the subject. “If you can’t be happy in Cádiz,” he told me, “the problem likely isn’t Cádiz.”

No great place is left undiscovered in a world where every beautiful beach and charming taverna of southern Europe has been documented on social media. Some gems, however, are still less known than others. Despite its 3,000-year history, its glorious setting on a peninsula in the southwest of the country, and its heady concentration of all things Andalusian, Cádiz has yet to be trampled by crowds. 

You’ll probably get a curious look, followed by a few questions. Isn’t this a little out of the way, and not really near Gibraltar? Yes, and no. The nearest airport is in Jerez De La Frontera (28 miles away), with no direct flights from outside Europe. Those who have visited will tell you that Cádiz is known for its port-city mystique and quick-witted locals. 

Recently, the city of 110,000 people has been receiving more attention from the rest of the world. The city’s long-standing lack in good accommodation is being addressed by new hotels, and it has become a popular stop for cruise ships heading for Lisbon The following are some examples of how to get started: Málaga. While the crowds swell in July and August, Cádiz manages to retain its seductive mix of grandeur and grit year-round. 

Few blocks away from the Castillo are a number of divey bars and fish restaurants, such as Taberna casa Manteca where everyone orders. chicharrones especiales (sliced pork bellies) drizzled with lemon and served in wax paper. Down the street are the ruins of the Teatro Romano, an amphitheater built around 100 B.C., when Cádiz was already an ancient city, having been founded by the Phoenicians a full millennium earlier. 

By lunchtime, the nearby Mercado Central transforms into a vibrant food court, with stalls serving local wines, sashimi from fresh fish, and vegan tapas. Around the corner looms the Baroque-Neoclassical Cádiz Cathedral, a remnant of the city’s 18th-century golden era, when Cádiz was Spain’s main harbor and a gateway to the Americas. The giant doors will swing open on religious holidays for solemn processions led burly men with statues depicting a weeping Virgin Mary. 

Gaditanos are the locals who live in the city. They are known for their humor. When I first read that Cádiz had the funniest people in Spain, I was doubtful. Can one town have a witter population than another? A thorough investigation was needed. Every winter before Lent, Cádiz holds a raucous 10-day carnival and street party that spotlights comedy even more than music and dance. The event begins with a satirical music competition held in the elegant Gran Teatro Falla. And if you chat with Gaditanos any time of year, you’ll quickly notice that many rely on wisecracks as their default mode of small talk. 

On my first night in town, I stopped at Taberna La Manzanilla, an alleyway bar that serves local sherries straight from the barrel. Sherry has been synonymous with the nearby city of Jerez for centuries. I mentioned to the bartender that it was my first time trying a dry Manzanilla. He glanced at my middle-aged face and said, with a grin, “A little late, no?” 

Another afternoon, over beers, I explored the finer points of Cádiz humor with José Luis García Cossío, a carnival performer and writer better known as El Selu. He noted that Cádiz had long been an economic underdog because of the decline of shipbuilding and other industries. “For years Cádiz has been cursed with few jobs and few resources,” he said. Why is everyone smiling? He surmised that Gaditanos had elevated life’s humblest pleasures—cracking jokes, watching the sun set—to an art form, because those have often been the only ones available. “In the north of Europe—say in Germany—people live in better circumstances. “But they don’t always have a good life.” 

Gaditanos, of course, have their moodier and more tempestuous sides—and an artful way of expressing them. Flamenco was born in southern Spain, and the scene in Cádiz is smaller and more intimate than in bigger cities like Seville, which is dominated by splashy, tourist-oriented performances. One weekend night I visited Peña Flamenca Juan Villar, a windowless bar with a vaulted ceiling that offers live shows most Fridays. An audience of about 75—who all seemed to be locals, except for me and a Dutch couple—roared and cheered as a gifted dancer named David Nieto shook the stage in a whir of heel stomps, wrist flicks, and head snaps. 

Nieto, a local dancer who runs a school in San Fernando nearby, later told me: “Flamenco may be an art form, but it’s become a successful business in larger cities.” “Here, it hasn’t happened yet.” The upside is that the essence of flamenco is still being preserved.”

After the show, I soon found myself back on sand—this time on the moonlit Playa de la Caleta, a small beach near the city’s historic center. Although Cádiz is technically a peninsula, connected to the mainland by a thin strip of sand, it feels like a small island, since you’re never more than a few blocks from a beach or a waterfront promenade. The crime rate is low because everyone knows everyone else’s mom. 

On my last morning, I stopped to buy a few nectarines at a local fruit stand. When I went to pay for my nectarines, I apologized that I only had a 50-euro bill, as I had just come from the ATM. “You’re very lucky,” she told me. “My ATM only gives out tens of dollars, and those are very few.” When she saw I understood, she laughed and gave me a piece of free fruit. 

Where to Stay

Áurea Casa Palacio SagastaThis hotel is located in an old mansion, which was once the British Embassy.

Casa Cánovas Boutique HotelThe 10-room Hotel opened in 2022 and is located in the center of the city, a more convenient location than larger hotels close to the beach.

Parador de CádizThis property is part of a collection of luxury hotels run by the state. It has ocean views, an excellent pool, and contemporary interiors.

What to Eat and Drink

BalandroThis is the perfect place for a three-hour indulgent lunch.

Café Royalty: A restored Belle Époque café, and a rare place for a quiet coffee. 

El Faro de CádizThe popular restaurant is one of the best seafood spots in the city. It also has a casual bar where you can enjoy tapas.

La Cepa GallegaThis taberna is a classic old-school establishment that serves sherries and other drinks to a busy crowd.

Listán Wine Tasca: A welcoming wine bar owned by a former sommelier who seems to know every obscure vintage in Cádiz province.

Mercado CentralThis historic market is located in the old city and offers a wide variety of seafood. 

Pub AlipamaThe quirky bar is located in the center of the city and has games.

Taberna Casa Manteca: If the line is too long at this Cádiz institution, run by the descendants of a beloved bullfighter, you can order a shrimp tortillita to go. 

Taberna La ManzanillaThe classic tavern of the early 20th century is a great place to order a sherry.

What to do

Gran Teatro FallaIt’s hard to find tickets during carnival. But performers roam the streets day and night, so you’ll see a show without even trying. 

La Perla de Cádiz: A cavernous flamenco hall that hosts some of Andalusia’s top performers. 

Peña Flamenca Juan Villar: Don’t go for the food, go for the weekend flamenco shows at this no-frills joint.

This story was first published in June 2025 issue Travel + Leisure Under the title “Fiesta Forever.”