It is a good idea to use a different language. Ten years ago, I moved from London to Stockholm for work. As a nature-lover and newcomer, I was eager to explore the archipelago’s 30,000 islands and outposts. But I was overwhelmed by complex public ferry timetables to dozens of places ending in the letter “ö” (the Swedish word for island) and uninterested in pricey cruise boats packed with tour groups.
Then a former flatmate recommended Nynäshamn, which is on the mainland but embodies much of the nature and spirit of Stockholm’s archipelago. The waterfront is full of restaurants and bars with colourfully painted walls, and the harbour is always packed with boats in summer – from dinghies up to luxury yachts. Beyond, you can look across a clean, calm stretch of Baltic Sea, towards the island of Bedarön, flanked by pine trees and a smattering of dark red detached houses.
Mention Nynäshamn to Stockholmers and most will probably describe it as the port you pass through to catch the four-hour ferry to Gotland – Sweden’s largest island – or an overnight cruise to Gdańsk in Poland. But for international tourists (or new Swedish residents, as I was), it is an entry-level coastal destination where you can get a taste of the city’s island life without the complex logistics.
Nynäshamn is on the commuter rail line from central Stockholm, and reachable in an hour. A one-way journey costs 43 kroner (£3.30), or it’s free if you have a valid monthly or weekly pass for the capital’s public transport system. For a little more adventure, it takes a further 30 minutes to reach Nåttarö, the closest island accessible by a public ferry service (£8 each way).
My first destination in Nynäshamn is Trehörningen, The island suburb is only a 30 minute walk away from the train station and can be reached by bridge. The route includes a mixture of low-rise 1960s flats, glassy new-builds, and mansions with manicured garden. Nynäshamn doesn’t have the swagger of swankier seaside towns in the region, such as Sandhamn or Saltsjöbaden, but it offers a slice of real-life small town Sweden far removed from the well-trodden tourist itineraries that typically lead to Stockholm’s medieval Old Town or isolated rural retreats.
“It’s very good for my health,” says Hans “Hasse” Larsson, a smiley 73-year-old former truck driver who moved to Nynäshamn from Stockholm 16 years ago. He loves the quiet, clean lifestyle and the fresh air. He also describes a greater sense of community than in the stiffer Swedish capital. “Even if you don’t know people very well, you’ll say ‘Hej‘!” He laughs.
Sweden is not a cheap destination but the exchange rate makes it cheaper than popular British seaside resorts like Brighton and St Ives. On Trehörningen island, it costs from just over £100 a night to rent a compact wooden cottage for two from Oskarsgatan 12 B&B. Breakfast buffet and entry to the spa at the nearby Nynäs Havsbad hotel works out at around £45. The spa’s pavilion is a reconstruction of an art nouveau-inspired resort built in 1906, complete with an outdoor hot tub, a sauna and panoramic views. The complex contains original buildings dating back to the early 20th Century, when the hotel was used as a base by sailors for the 1912 Stockholm Olympic Games.
From here, it’s a short walk to Strandvägen, a French riviera-inspired waterfront road built for spectators of sailing. It is said by locals that it’s the only place on the Stockholm archipelago area where you can actually see the horizon. The scenic route winds towards Lövhagen, a wooded area offering shady trails and picnic tables. There are rocky swimming coves too – although, with average outdoor temperatures of 18C in July and August, the chilly waters won’t be to everyone’s taste.
For walkers, Nynäshamn is also a gateway to Sörmlandsleden, a system of hiking trails covering around 620 miles in total and clearly marked with orange arrows and painted tree markers. Section 5:1 from Nynäshamn passes through mossy forests and grassy farmland to the village of Osmö, where you can catch a train back to Nynäshamn or continue another nine miles to Hemfosa, snaking past Lake Muskan’s glistening waters.
Back at Nynäshamn’s main harbour, the restaurants are filling up with tourists hungry for lunch. The most popular spot is Nynäs Rökeri, a smokehouse dating back almost 40 years, where a platter of smoked salmon, seafood and potato salad costs less than £20. The delicatessen next door stocks classic Swedish treats like cheesy potato salad, smoked salmon and fresh fish. västerbotten From lingonberry jam to crispbreads, we have it all. A nearby courtyard is shared with customers visiting the ice-cream store Lejonet & Björnen, a small cafe and a gift shop.
The smell of cinnamon fills the air, and I recognize the logo of Skeppsbro BageriA food truck with fresh pastries, bread and buns is parked along the waterfront of, a Stockholm bakery. “I like it here,” says Emelie Elison, the 24-year-old student who is working in the van for her third summer in a row. There are always people around and something is happening.
In July, the cities of Sweden are empty as residents flock to the coast for a summer holiday in wooden cottages. These holiday homes are known as fritidshusNearly half of all children with at least a Swedish parent can access one. They also have plenty of time to enjoy them – most Swedish employees are entitled to four consecutive weeks off each summer.
After a grey morning, the sun comes out as I join the ferry queue for Nåttarö. Most people around me have bags of groceries, suitcases and backpacks with them, as they plan to stay for a minimum of a week. A couple of sporty-looking day-trippers from Stockholm told me, wearing only small running backpacks and carrying just a few items, that they planned to run a 6-mile loop. the Stockholm Archipelago TrailA newly marked trail-running and hiking route spanning 167 miles over 20 islands.
Most tourists visiting Nåttarö take things at a slower pace. The island is small and car-free, with just one convenience store by the harbor. Pine-lined trails, rocky shores and sandy beach are the main attractions. There are 50 wooden cabins for hire (sleeping up to six people, £90 a night). The campsite is priced at less than £5 a night, including access to pristine showers, compost toilets and dishwashing facilities. Wild camping is also allowed, thanks to allemansrätten, Sweden’s right to roam policy.
I take a 1¼-mile trail to Skarsand, a small beach in the north-east of the island. Two years ago I celebrated a friend’s 40th Birthday here, with her friends and their children, while cooking dinner on the public grill. I am the only person on the beach today, and that’s despite it being holiday season.
The sunny afternoon passes quickly, and a couple of hours later I’m back on the ferry for Nynäshamn. They have also made it, after successfully completing their run. The pair is eagerly anticipating a pizza at Maggan’s, another popular restaurant in Nynäshamn’s harbour, and tell me they’ve squeezed clean T-shirts into their backpacks to change into. I also plan to have a drink in the evening on the waterfront. Tomorrow I’ll be at my desk, catching up on emails – and researching my next coastal adventure.
