The Hidden Gem Island of Turks and Caicos with More Donkeys than People

An outlier is hidden in a sea full of tourists, cruise ships, and tchotchkes. Salt Cay is an island of soul with a rich history that shaped modern society. It has a culture that values fast friendships, cold beer and adventure off the grid. Salt Cay, Turks and CaicosOnce a bustling town, the 2.9-square mile patch of land, located about 35 minutes by boat south of Grand Turk, is now a quiet island. The island’s 40 permanent residents are now outnumbered by wild donkeys. Salt Cay’s one and only restaurant and bar, the local fishermen and world-class diving are all reasons to visit this island.

I’m tagging along with an archaeological expedition. Since there is only a single bar and restaurant and a tiny airstrip on the island we decide to meet up in Grand Turk first before moving on to Salt Cay. Our twin-propeller plane operated by InterCaribbean It is crowded and there are vents that blow hot air. While the sweat on my forehead begins to form, I am distracted. The turbulence is not distracting me, but rather the electric glow from the most beautiful water I’ve ever seen. The waves ripple over coral heads and clouds of orange seagrass are thrown about by the current.

After our plane has landed, we all shuffle down a mobile stairway to the baggage claim. In a single-gated airport, a conveyor belt begins to move and collects our bags. After introductions, our group heads outside and into a golf cart (the preferred form of transportation in both Grand Turk Island and Salt Cay). Turks and Caicos, a British Overseas Territory is unique in that driving is on the other side of the street. It is fun, though. We pass donkeys, tourists and locals. There are also new buildings, colonial houses, and construction.

The Arrival of the Osprey Beach Hotel We drop half of our group off. I and a few other people putted down the road towards our hotel for the evening. Manta House. Both of these accommodations are a short distance from one of the most well-kept secrets on the island. Sandbar. My bare feet touch the wooden floor as the wind blows over the teal-electric water. Goggles, a local dog that runs in packs all around Grand Turk, greets me and my friends like we are old friends. As the sun sets, we watch as the last orange slice dips below the horizon. A mythical flash of green appears.

Next morning we head to the grocery store, finalize our plans and meet Richard & Elliot. Salt Cay Divers We waited for the local dive shop (at the boat dock) to take us south to the land where salt and silence is.

As we leave the harbour, the water is calm. Just arrived is a cruise ship. The boat ride takes 35 minutes and is straight. As we leave the safety on the leeward side, the tide starts to rise. The boat cuts through the small waves as it rocks. As we near the Salt Cay Harbor, what was once a tiny point on the horizon becomes larger. The white sand, the cliff face of the bluff, and the Coral Reef Bar & Grill, are all a welcome sight. Enrique Dickenson, one of several islanders we meet as the boat approaches Deane’s Dock – the only harbor on the island – greets us. Enrique is wearing black long pants and a long-sleeved T-shirt—his standard attire. He is the island’s entrepreneur and golf cart rentals are one of his businesses. He gives us golf carts and greets us with a smile as if we are old friends. We load our gear onto the carts to be transported back to our homes.

Three people stayed at Marshwiggle, while the majority stayed at Harbourside House. All accommodations are owned and booked through the dive shop. The Harbourside House consists of a duplex connected with one bedroom and two bedrooms. The full kitchens have plenty of space for groceries, and are large enough to cook a meal. The front porch is adorned with rocking chairs and overlooks the turquoise waters to the West. The dirt road is dotted with donkeys and chickens. Karen, who owns the dive shop, and three others stay with me at ZaZen.

Each morning, we are awakened by the crows of roosters just as the sun is rising. We spend the first few days walking and carting along the dirt roads that connect the islands, as there are no paved streets. Every person and every place on Salt Cay is steeped in history. Salt Cay’s main industry (salt) started in the late 1600s when British colonists developed the infrastructure and salinas. The island became a global leader in the salt industry by using slave labor. Salt Cay’s salt industry began to decline after the abolition slavery and the construction of salt mines. Today, we pass the unmaintained salinas as well as the ghosts from windmills. And, of course, the homes that have endured the test. White House, once a prominent home, offers visitors a walkthrough museum experience to view a different time. A few miles away, salt is still formed naturally in the salinas. The concreted crystals make a fantastic souvenir but Salt Cay Salt Works This includes bath scrubs and flavored salts.

Salt Cay’s land is awash with history but its real treasures lie below the waves. Salt Cay Divers offers a complete dive shop, including gear rentals, boat service, and guided dives. Richard, our shop manager and boat pilot, helps outfit the team with the right gear and prepare the boats for diving. Weight limits apply to the small planes that fly from Providenciales, to Grand Turk. You will need to leave your tank and weights at home. However, the waters around Salt Cay are full of dive sites including shipwrecks, the shelf wall, and many other interesting places.

The water in the leeward part of Salt Cay looks like glass. The dive shop loaded us on one of their skiffs to do near-shore diving and then hauled us out on a double-decker catamaran for scuba diving at ruins. You should bring motion sickness medication if you dive offshore. This is true especially during the high season (early months) when humpbacks calve off the coast. Salt Cay offers visitors the chance to go whale-watching and even swim with whales.

When we deflate the BCDs, and descend below the surface of water, we feel transported. The water is like a rainbow. Fish and sharks bob and weave around the 40-foot-tall coral-covered rocks—a hazard for boats and the reason why this area of the Caribbean is referred to as a shipwreck graveyard. The nurse and reef sharks are on the prowl, hiding in plain view, while lionfish and cuttlefish dart about. Its colors are changed to better blend with the surrounding. Under us, we can see a 15 foot-long anchor that was part of a shipwreck from 1790. It is also accompanied by thirty cannons. Visibility seems to be endless. We drift adrift as we float with the tide. Hiding behind the corals, we take a rest, and then swim coral to coral to get back to our anchor. This dive, which is only 45 feet deep and lasts over an hour, takes place at a depth of just about 45 feet.

We arrive back at Salt Cay, exhausted from the dive and on a high. We have a quick shower and a change of clothes before walking across the street to the Coral Reef Bar & Grill. About 20 people can sit at the wood-floored bar on the patio. Enrique, who manages the bar, is inside. Water, beer, wine and soda are all available to purchase. Salt Cay does not provide free water. Antonia, originally from the Dominican Republic, spent the entire day preparing and cooking our orders. Each day she offers only a few options. Most days I order conch, which is served with a generous portion of rice and peas. A side salad is also included. Antonia smashes the conch—a very tough meat—into thin slices. We eat the conch, freshly fried and hand battered with a beer as the sun sets. Every week, locals and tourists fill the bar to play dominoes or sing karaoke on Saturday nights. The locals are in a crescendo after a day of fishing, diving and collecting salt.

Salt Cay is a place where 15 days fly by. We are tired, relaxed and feel as if we’re part of the community. You won’t find many places where you can travel to a remote area, meet people who are truly excited to have you there, and pet wild donkeys. You can also dive with sharks or eat fresh seafood. Salt Cay will immerse you in history.