I was able to sleep through the night on my second day. NorwayI stopped checking my watch. It’s not because I am lazy or rebellious, but just because it doesn’t matter anymore.
It’s 11 p.m. I’m standing on Reinebünden, one Norway’s most renowned peaks, and watching the fjord from below. Golden light pours over the water, casting long shadows and catching gulls’ wings as they circle below. This moment is filled with a rare, quiet joy that I’ve never felt anywhere else. This is my first experience with friluftsliv.
Norwegian Open-air Life
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Friluftsliv—loosely meaning “open-air life”—is a Norwegian concept rooted in finding meaning and joy in being outdoors. Henrik Ibsen first used the term in 1859. It’s contagious. 77 percent of Norwegians get outdoors at least once a week, and a quarter do so daily. It is possible that this is one of the reasons why Norwegians are among the happiest people in the world.
There are few places that offer an ideal setting for exploration friluftsliv North of the Lofoten islands. North of the Arctic CircleSeven main islands spread across more than a hundred miles of wild and pristine terrain. The mountains rise up everywhere and are perfectly reflected in the still waters of the fjords, inlets and bays below, as if they were replicating each other. Game of Thrones intro. Every village and road is framed by them. But the beaches are a pleasant surprise.
Haukland, a frequent entrant in lists of the best beaches in Europe: sugar-white sand, royal blue water so clear it looks tropical—until you dip your toes in and realize you’re at 68 degrees north—and a silence broken only by the waves and breeze.
A dog walker waves at us as he passes. “Welcome, to the Caribbean,” says the man with a grin. He barely breaks stride while we stare open-mouthed in awe at the expanse of white sand. The dog also doesn’t stop. It’s obvious that it has heard this line many times before.
When the Sun Refuses To Leave
It’s easy to start with friluftsliv Lofoten is best between mid-May to mid-July when the sun doesn’t set but just lingers at the horizon. It’s like a party guest who refuses to leave. Locals make the most of it—kayakers get out on the water before breakfast and colleagues share office gossip on after-dinner hikes. Lofoten is home to the Norwegian royal family, who are often spotted hiking. Local guide: “We were a little nervous about overtaking the royal family.” “Is curtseying required halfway up the mountain?”
With such high company, the challenge is how to fully embrace friluftsliv During our five days in Lofoten. It’s easy to get outdoors at any time of the day or night, as there are no clocks. We start our day hiking Offersøykammen, our local hill; 10 hours later, we set out to climb Reinebringen, Lofoten’s best-known trail. Sherpas built 1,972 stone stairs to fight erosion. But the view from the top is spectacular.
Both hikes have relatively short ascents (between one and 1.5 hours) with steep drops. Full panoramas are revealed in the last steps. The sun, low on the horizon illuminating distant mountain ridges, is softly illuminated by the sheer cliffs that reveal villages below. There are churches, football fields, and harbors. friluftsliv-infused Norwegians.
Fjord Adventures
Phil Thomas
The 24-hour daylight is a huge advantage for travelers, and tour operators are adapting quickly. Lofoten Arctic Adventures It is the only tour company that offers midnight sun kayaking in the islands. The booking was rescheduled for mid-afternoon because of stormy weather. However, in a country without time, the change is not important.
Hannelore, a Belgian and Jan are the couple who run the tour. It is full of history relating to water, including edible seaweed (which tastes like spinach) clinging on the rocks to the social ranking of house colors. The iconic red Rorbuer (fisherman’s cabins), seen in Lofoten, once housed thousands of fishermen that flocked to this area each winter during cod season. The cabins are a deep red colour due to a combination of iron oxide (oxide) and fish blood.
The tradition of wealthy residents painting their houses in expensive whites and yellows has continued over the last century. The newspapers are always interested when people deviate from the traditional colors.
Hannelore friluftsliv means the freedom to be outside every day—on foot, on the water, wherever the light leads. The same shift is seen in the people who go on family hikes, kayaking trips, camping trips and other excursions. She says that when people stop checking their watch, they begin to smile more. “It is like their heart has slowed down.”
Jan nods and adds, “Even children eventually stop asking what the time is.” “The parents are usually grateful for that.”
We decide to indulge after a long day of activities and calf care. friluftsliv We can be less active. We join a RIB safari from Svolvær harbor in search of sea eagles, racing across mirrored fjords in a black inflatable boat that feels more spy novel than sightseeing. With a wing-span of up to eight feet, the eagles can spot fish at a distance and then swoop down with their talons extended, to grab it. They circle above the cliffs unbothered and precisely, leaving everyone feeling completely insignificant.
Midnight on a Mountain
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We choose to hike late at night on our final evening. This time, we chose the 1,200-foot Hoven which towers over us. Lofoten LinksThe contender for most scenic golf course in the world. At the top, there is no one else. Midnight comes and goes without fanfare—no darkness, no noise, just the soft crunch of boots on stone, the slow drift of gulls, and perhaps the odd sea eagle in gold-edged flight.
This hour, on another trip I might have been sitting in a dark bar or on a subway station. But here, somewhere between the sea and the sky, I’ve stumbled into a rare kind of freedom—the kind that doesn’t care what time it is or where you’re supposed to be.
You can get there and around
Morten Larsen/Widerøe
You can reach Lofoten by sea or air. The appealing town of Bodø (a 1.5-hour flight from OsloIt is also the best mainland base.
Air: Widerøe operates eight daily flights from Bodø to Svolvær (Lofoten’s largest town), and a similar number to Leknes, a smaller central town. Flights also run once daily from Oslo and Tromsø to Svolvær. All routes last around 30 minutes.
Sea: Car ferries run up to four times daily (just over three hours) between Bodø and Moskenes at the southern tip of the archipelago. Book in advance Arrive at least 2 hours before departure to get a walk-up rate. As you approach Lofoten, the views are spectacular. Foot passenger-only ferries also depart daily from Bodø to Svolvær (about 3.5 hours).
Car: The best way to see the country is with a private car. While rentals are available in Leknes and Svolvær, it’s usually much cheaper to hire in Bodø and bring the vehicle over on the ferry.
Bus: Reis Northland is responsible for the operation of public buses. Download the app to get started. view timetables. You can’t expect that they will follow the midnight sun.
Where to Stay
Svolvær has the widest range of accommodations on Lofoten. Scandic Svolvær On the Harbor offers simple rooms that offer stellar views, and include breakfast. Thon Hotel Nearby receives high praise for the floating sauna and waterside restaurant.
Accommodations are cheaper outside Svolvær. We stayed in this delightful Airbnb The central part of the island is close to Leknes. It was quiet and comfortable. All the sun-chasing activities were within an hours drive.
The modernized rorbuer are a very popular option for self-catering. Fjord-side Lofoten Rorbu LodgeIt is a great choice for groups of up to 8 travelers and is only 10 minutes from Leknes.