I crave solitude and the asceticism that these solo walks bring. There is no quieter place on earth The third hour is the best part of a day’s walking. The mind receives the bizarre gifts and charitable works of the world when it is alone, in this space created by the walk. Even though it sounds like woowoo nonsense, the experience is even more woowoo.
I have come to understand that the only real walk is the one you do again. You can’t know a place unless you return. Once is not enough. It’s the reason I’m returning. I’m back on the peninsula. Walking the roads I’ve already walked. It’s only through time and distance and effort—concerted, present effort, controlled attention, a gentle and steady gaze upon it all—that you begin to understand old connections, old wounds. It is only through time and distance that you can begin to understand old connections, old wounds.
The book Things Become Other things: A Walking Memoir By Craig Mod. Copyright © 2025 by Craig Mod. Random House is an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC. All rights reserved.
How to get there
Take the Iseji. Shinkansen train from Tokyo to Nagoya, and transfer to the Kintetsu Limited Express down to Ise City.
Where to Go
Over eight or nine days, walk from Ise Grand Shrine up to Shingu Hayatama Shrine. You can also take the train to Owase from Ise City, then spend a few nights in Owase exploring Yakiyama Mountain Pass.
What to stay
An historical inn in Ise Asakichi
A convenient hotel on the route Fairfield by Marriott Mie Okuise Odai
A detail-oriented B&B-style ryokan-inn: Misuzu
Onsen Ryokan with lavish meals Minoshima
An inn that offers a view of the sea: Owase Seaside View
What to Pack
Lighten up. No boots. No boots running shoes are best—there can be a lot of up and down depending on which parts of the Ise-ji you’re walking. Collapsible hiking poles are useful. Bring layers—merino wool base layers Depending on the season, you can wear tops, jackets and fleeces. A light jacket is recommended as it can rain quite a bit on the Kii Peninsula. collapsable umbrella A good idea is always welcome. It’s a big idea. floppy hat It is fantastic to get rid of the sun. The sun can be brutally hot from May through October.
