Abisko in Sweden is a Lapland village with only 150 residents. It might not appear on a map. The village has established itself as one the world’s most beautiful. best places in the world to consistently see the northern lights.
The combination of Abisko’s unique microclimate and remote location combined with minimal light pollution gives a 88 percent chance to see the aurora. The west winds blowing over the Swedish mountains from the Arctic Ocean cause a weather phenomenon: a rain shadow over Abisko. This phenomenon, also known as the “bluehole,” leads to more clear skies in Abisko even when clouds are present around.
Carinne Geil Botta/Travel + Leisure
My parents and my husband both wanted to see the northern lights, so I suggested we all meet in Abisko. This would maximize our chances. The only logistical challenge was that this village was 150 miles north from the Arctic Circle.
Abisko can be reached by train, even though it is located far away. This is not just any train trip; it’s one of the most scenic. most beautiful journeys in the worldIn 17 hours, we covered the entire length and breadth of Sweden. Transport promised to be as exciting as the actual experience.
Vy’s Norrland Night Train is also known as the Arctic Circle Train. It departs Stockholm Central Station at 6pm daily, and arrives in Abisko around 11am. With traditional seats and sleeping car options such as couchette bunk beds, and private sleeping compartments there are many choices to suit all budgets and preferences.
Carinne Geil Botta/Travel + Leisure
My family and I boarded a NT 94 train at Stockholm on a blustery, February night among a sea, including cross-country skiing enthusiasts. northern lights chasersThere were a few locals, as well. The sleeping cars were sold out, so we had to take the traditional seats. I was still impressed with the cleanliness and functionality of this main cabin. There was ample luggage storage and legroom. Wi-Fi worked well and there were charging outlets on every seat.
We gathered our bags and headed down the corridor towards the observation and dining car, which offered expansive views and delicious meals. Serving Norrland-inspired dishes—from köttbullar (Swedish meatballs), mashed potatoes, and lingonberries to grilled chicken wraps and reindeer flatbreads—the food was prepared from scratch in Luleå with fresh, local ingredients.
We spent a lot of time in this observation vehicle. Clutching steaming cups of Skogsglänta rooibos tea, we poured over the informational displays explaining the science behind the northern lights and the history of where we were headed: the Sápmi region. The Sámi, Sweden’s Indigenous people, have lived in the Arctic for thousands of years. Their cultural traditions and deep connection with nature are palpable throughout the region, from traditional reindeer herding practices to Márkanbáiki Sámi open-air museums to their leadership in ethical and sustainable tourism initiatives.
We all agreed that we needed to get some rest in order to prepare for the exciting days ahead. After a few minutes of dozing, I was woken by screams of joy from the opposite side. A group of college-age students from Málaga were seeing snow for the first time.
I have lived in cold climates for many years, but nothing could prepare me for the otherworldly scene of snow atop towering pines that covered the ground. The sky was gold as I watched the sunrise.
Carinne Geil Botta/Travel + Leisure
Abisko is known for its northern lights show, but it offers much more.
As you cross into the Arctic Circle on the train, you will enter a completely different world. It was a world of soft light, stillness, striking natural beauty, and crisp mountaintops. One where we trekked across the frozen Torneträsk lake behind the shadow of a solitary moose. One where we drove a team of huskies 11 miles through the wilderness and ate traditional Sámi dishes in a tent around a crackling fire. We saw solar halos – the daytime equivalent of northern lights.
Carinne Geil Botta/Travel + Leisure
The lights danced over us as we lay in our snowsuits on the frozen surface of Abisko National Park. My sister, my husband and I were all wrapped up in our snowsuits. As it began in a soft pink hue, the iridescent ribbon soon changed into vivid greens and magentas. The Milky Way was like a bright band of light that split the night sky in two. I felt as close to magical as I have ever been.
Carinne Geil Botta/Travel + Leisure
Three days later we began our journey to Stockholm again, but this time in the private compartments. Scandinavian-styled, our compartments included three berths with a sink. Towels and linens were also provided. The fact that toilets and bathrooms are only a couple of doors away is one reason why these sell so quickly.
As we left I couldn’t resist reflecting on our journey. Scandinavian Railways is a great example of how accessible and sustainable travel can be done in remote areas. The Scandinavian railway system bridged this gap, allowing travellers to visit some of most untouched and beautiful places in the world.
The journey from Abisko to Stockholm is often a last chance for travelers to experience the northern lights. As I raced back to the observation car with my nose against the glass I saw the northern lights make their final appearance.
The train was lulling me to sleep as I snuck down the halls. Abisko was a destination for northern lights but we got so much more.