In 2007, I traveled around South America for a month, an experience as memorable as what I experienced (Peru, Chile, Argentina, UruguayBrazil. I didn’t want to include Brazil because it is so vast and so diverse culturally. I told myself that I would make a separate journey one day.
It was only 18 years after that I kept my promise. It was the little push I needed to learn that Brazil will once again be a major player in world sports. start requiring visas for US visitors (The requirement was paused in 2019). The requirement has been suspended since 2019. Of course, Rio de Janeiro was on my itinerary, but because I’m fascinated by megacities, São Paulo was of particular interest to me too. I enjoy being surrounded by an urban environment that is endless. Give me New York, Tokyo. Mexico CityI am comforted by the abundance and delighted.
It’s obvious that living or visiting a large city requires a place to retreat to. And because I prefer to live in a city like a local, I knew Airbnb was the best option. A friend who had studied in São Paulo recommended the upscale district of Jardins, southwest of the city center. Airbnb’s search for one-bedroom apartments led me here Atelier 11The so-called “artist’s flat” is a bright, well-appointed space. I was drawn to the photos of this bright and well-appointed apartment. It seemed like the perfect place to relax and recharge while exploring the vast and busy city.
Flying from Rio, I landed in Congonhas–Deputado Freitas Nobre Airport, which is closer to Jardins than the larger Guarulhos Airport. From there, I took a 30-minute car ride to the apartment, located on the second floor of a high-end modernist building on a quiet street a few blocks from the main thoroughfare of Avenida Paulista, the subway, and the São Paulo Museum of Art (SAMP). The apartment is secured by a coded door lock and has a doorman. As soon as I entered, I was able to see that the photos accurately represented the apartment.
It’s possible that the photos have undersold it. The entryway led into a large main room with a dining table, formal seating, and an office, where a minimalist desk faced the floor-to ceiling windows overlooking the street. The perfect place to journal, or catch up on work while watching the world outside. The cozy sitting area to the left of the desk had a Brazilian wood and leather lounge chair that I wanted in my apartment. The plants were scattered around to create a “jardim”.
Any description would be incomplete if it did not mention the art. The walls were adorned by a dramatic canvas, or a collection small pieces with sculptures scattered around. As if the artist had just left, one painting was on an easel near a director’s chair. It was like walking into a bright, luminous art gallery.
The apartment’s bedroom was located in the middle, where low-light conditions made it ideal for sleeping. Just off the entryway, there was a sleek eatin kitchen. I was intrigued by the kitchen gadgets and tools, but knew I would be relying on the amazing gastronomic offerings of the city to satisfy my appetite. São Paulo is known for its bakeries, There were some hidden gems in Jardins. On the same block as the apartment is the all-day café Casaria SP, where I breakfasted in the lovely covered garden. Vivant Padaria Artesanal is also nearby. Get the Romeu e Julieta – a Danish pasty with guava, sweet cheese and a tangy guava sauce. Zestzing has a kouign amann filled with pistachio cream that I’m still dreaming about. I also made a pilgrimage beyond breakfast to Clandestina in nearby Via Madalena Enjoy a Brazilian-style dinner and a visit to the Brazilian Museum. Tan Tan, in the next-door district of Pinheiros, for a cocktail (try the Old Passioned—I was obsessed with anything made with passion fruit during my stay).
