You can also read about RGalicia’s coast, located in Spain’s northwestern region, has been dubbed “ends of the earth” and “coasts of death” by Atlantic waves. There is another, quieter side of this coast, the one that’s more intimate. rias (inlets). The legend says that God created them when he made this world. And, they are home to some of the finest shellfish. It is this lure that draws me to Vigo. The largest fishing port of the EU. A sheltered estuary spills over a hillside and into a marina, industrial docks with jetties, fishing port, and cruise terminal.
The combination of fresh riverwater and salty oceanwater is the magic formula, creating a nutrient rich paradise for succulent cephalopods. It was not long before I learned that Vigueses are joined at the hip to the sea – and have been for centuries. Passion for el mar Rules: As one local told me, “We are men of the ocean,” and on the menus of Vigo’s taverns and tapas bars, shellfish and ocean fish were served.
As I walk along the quayside, I come across a lifesize bronze statue of a bearded gentleman seated on four giant tentacles. You might recognize this statue if you are familiar with Jules Verne’s epic novel 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. It features Captain Nemo’s ingenious submarine Nautilus. Author Jules Verne was inspired by the stories he heard about Vigo. He later visited the city and created the fictional story of Nemo searching for treasures in sunken galleys on the seabed. Francis Drake could have destroyed some of the galleons when he attacked Vigo in 3 centuries. The port of Vigo survived invasions by pirates, and other invaders.
I went to the estuary to find out more about the mussels that are farmed. Pablo Mariño, of marine tourism specialist BluscusMy knowledgeable guide is guiding me in his tradition bateeiro Boat over calm, plankton rich water to what appears like a wooden house on stilts. This is just one of over 600 Bateas This article describes how to use floating rafts. ria alone – part of Galicia’s marine industry that exports worldwide and employs about 15% of Vigo’s population.
Jorge, the cheerful leader of this raft explains how to produce top-notch, plump mussels that are only 48 hours old. The long ropes that hang above the water and are suspended in it is where mussels grow from spawn to mature shells. This can take up to 18 month. Jorge’s excitement sparkles even though production is down. He proudly shows a large cluster of these inky-black shells.
Near our dock, I run into Severino Casal, a former fishing boat captain who takes trips along the coast with his wooden boat, built in 1970. Nuevo Migueliño. “I fell for the sea as a teenager, I loved the scenery, the fish, and the fresh air. However, the industry is now changing due to tighter regulations. Also, overfishing and rising temperatures in the water are a few of the problems. rias. “There are so many variables.”
It’s time to sample some of Vigo’s sea creatures, so I head for the famous Calle de las Ostras (oyster street) to indulge in half a dozen succulent molluscs shucked in front of me for €13 (£11). The stands used to be dominated by women “shuckers”, however, now it’s mostly men. I sit at a table next to Bar Cocedero La Piedra, am served the mandatory glass of chilled albariño, and rapidly consume the slippery bivalves.
The picturesque CascoVello, or old town, is located uphill. It’s a steep climb of stairs and slopes that wind past granite houses and little squares. You will also find a variety of restaurants and bars. Uplighters make the nighttime facades even more dreamy. You can still find some of the classics. Taberna A Pedra, which are usually packed and order silky-grilled Navajas (razor clams, €16), berberechos (cockles, €14), almejas (clams swimming in garlic, chili and olive oil) Chipirones (cuttlefish, €9) and padron peppers. As everywhere else, the basket is ideal for mopping up juice.
Nearby is funky ValdevezThe restaurant is located in a small alley. It’s a favorite among the football team of Vigo. It’s spacious, with a great value €15 set lunch menu, creative dishes, top wines and a lineup of vintage radios. Their tender pulpo a feira The (Galician style octopus), scallops, and aged beef tenderloin are all available. It is anything but eclectic.
As I approach the central square, Praza do Porta do Sol in the centre of the city, everything changes. Ensanche, the district that is named after the Catalan entrepreneurs responsible for the development of Galicia’s lucrative canning industry during the late 19th-century. They also brought along factories that produced sardines, mussels and other tins. Modernist Along the avenues, you’ll find art nouveau architecture (the equivalent in Catalan culture of Parisian architecture), as well as luxury banks and commerce. Vigo boomed. The nightlife, culture and shopping are all centered in this part of town. It is also the place where you can break from the traditional restaurants.
Go raw at Restaurante Crudeza, You can also find out more about the following: place for divine ceviche, with sea bass, scallop, or salmon tartare (€20-€30), and superbly prepared by a Venezuelan team and very affordable. The steep climb up to El Castro Fortress is the perfect way to digest. Built in 1665, it was built to protect Venezuela from English invasions. Now surrounded by parkland, this fortress has been transformed into a beautiful destination. The blissful views are breathtaking Islas CiésThe luminous waters are home to fishing villages, pristine beaches and beautiful beaches. The islands, which you need a permit to visit, and villages of Moaña and Cangas, can be reached by ferry or the immense Rande bridge.
Off the Gran Via, where I am spirited uphill by moving walkways – a welcome innovation – I seek out Enxebre, is a restaurant run by a young married couple who have a knack for bringing new twists to classic Galician dishes. Their €35 tasting menu is a steal, and you can sit at the kitchen counter to watch the action.
On a bench, I take a breather and look back towards the estuary. The Alameda da Praza de Compostela is a beautiful avenue with gardens of tree ferns and magnolias. Stately facades surround the area. A few bars and restaurants in the area are decent, but one stands out: La Mar Salada. This charming little restaurant is known for its deliciously baked Atlantic fish such as seabream or seabass, cod in pil-pil sauce and creamy white rice with red shrimps and monkfish.
Plenty more seafood restaurants lie in wait, but I decide to spend my last evening investigating a unique 300-year-old Galician tradition – a Furancho. This takes me into the hilly wine-country of Rías Baixas in the company of Juan Vidal and Lorena Cancelas, two of the founders of Guía FuranchínA guide online to small wineries that open their doors for three months in December, January and February to sell off excess. In a garden or garage, in a lean to, in the living room, or even in a garage, guests can enjoy young wines and tapas.
We ordered jugs both of red (the heaviest I’ve seen) and white for washing down empanadas. Crochetas, jamón, tortilla and pork fillet – simple but tasty food.
As I watch the ruddy faces of our dining companions, many still in working clothes and enjoying a cheap night out (our bill came to €12 each and we were sated), I realise that this institution, unique to Galicia, reflects the region’s rural soul, if not exactly the “men of the sea”.
For anyone with two or four wheels, or simply two legs, Vigo also offers a seductive range of coastal side trips, from Cambados (the capital of albariño wine), where at low tide shellfishers rake the sand for razor clams, to the nature park of Corrubedo, a birders’ haven where boardwalks vanish into undulating sand dunes. Find authentic seafood in Corrubedo at the cool Bar do Porto, is owned by Sir David Chipperfield of British descent and his wife. They have been Galician enthusiasts for over 30 years and can attest to the region’s charm. Townies can travel south to Baiona and its former peninsula fort now converted into a parador or head north to explore the architectural treasures and vibrancy of Pontevedra.
Vigo world is at your fingertips ostra – or is it mussel?
The tour was organized by the Spanish tourist office The following are some examples of how to get started: Turismo de Vigo. She stayed in Bahia de Vigo Hotel, doubles The following is a list of the most recent and relevant articles. €95 (£82) B&B, which has The facade is very 1970s but the views are spectacular
