You can also find out more about FDevon has been viewed for many years as Cornwall’s inferior. Its coastline is less rugged, and its beaches are smaller. We never considered the county a destination, but rather a way to get to the other treasures. Cornwall’s distance from us was a sign of its superiority. How wrong we were.
North Devon in particular is enjoying a moment. Its 30km coast is the UK’s first World Surfing Reserve. It joins Australia’s Gold Coast as well as California’s Malibu & Santa Cruz, which are officially selected. Newquay’s Fistral is no more.
Even if you are not a surfer, the beaches of north Devon can easily compete with Cornwall. Woolacombe, our first stop, is astonished by its sheer size. An epic expanse of golden sand – quarter of a mile wide at low tide and two miles long – under a dome of bright blue sky framed by undulating green hills. The National Trust, which owns this area, has ensured that there is no development.
Woolacombe is certainly less gentrified, but it’s all the more charming. It’s refreshing to see the second-home owners who are wealthy absent, and the prices are much lower. There’s no chance of paying £16.95 for Rick Stein’s cod and chips here.
Stop for lunch at Fudgies Bakehouse near the seafront. You can enjoy homemade ice cream and fresh pasties for less than £10 per person. Then, we have beers in Bar Electric, which has a sun terrace with views of the beach.
Willingcot will be our base this week. A collection of eco-homes in a lush, green valley located two miles inland. The open-plan kitchen and living room are perfect for families. There is also a decking area and outdoor seating to watch your children explore the greenery.
A bridle trail that used to be an old railway line runs close by. This is great for cycling and walking around the bays. Ilfracombe has a Victorian harbour, and is less gentrified, and quieter, than Woolacombe. It’s worth a stop for the sculpture by Damien Hirst, or if that’s your thing, Croyde. VerityA pregnant woman is seen with her sword raised, her skull and foetus are visible. For tea and cake, and splendid views across the harbour, the Lime Kiln café is a handy pit stop.
Fifteen minutes down the road is Braunton with a pleasant high street lined with boutiques and cafés. You can view Braunton Burrows from Velator Quay. It is a Unesco biosphere due to its unique plant and insect life. You might spot a herd that looks hostile and is grazing the dunes.
Next day, we head for Putsborough. From the beach, we take a path to the top of a hill. Then the South West Coast Path takes us high above sea level. As we round the rocky headland at Baggy Point, a patchwork of green field stretches behind us. On either side of us is a panoramic view of the ocean. Croyde is a popular bay for surfers, and we end up there, enjoying a beer at the Thatch, a local pub.
Our final day, we walked from Mortehoe to Morte Point. The waves smashed over the “devil’s tooth” – craggy rocks which have caused many shipwrecks throughout the centuries. Nowadays you’re more likely to spot seals in these choppy waters – we saw several frisking in the waves below us.
The outdoor hot tub is the best way to soothe blisters and aching muscles after a blustery hike around the headland.
Luxury Coastal (luxurycoastal.co.uk) offers seven nights at Willingcott from £728 (sleeps eight), including a welcome hamper. A three-night break starts at £679
