This neighborhood guide was curated by a member of our team. New York CityEditors who have made it their home.
Carroll Gardens has been my recommendation for those looking to explore the outer-boroughs. According to me, this is the real Brooklyn. It’s soulful, with its old architecture, neighborhood-y, and community-oriented. In summer, streets lined with Brownstones are shaded by trees and protected. But in winter, these same streets are dusted off with snow. Smith Street and Court Street have a lot of commercial activity. designer restaurants Old-time bars and high-end vintage and retail stores. The streets are alive with people all the time, from friends drinking coffee in outdoor cafes to families queuing for pizza and twenty-somethings. bar hopping Late night. A 20-minute drive from Manhattan’s downtown, the neighborhood has a dining and bar scene to rival any city. New Yorkers that live elsewhere are drawn there for weekend getaways. It’s even reachable after walking the Brooklyn Bridge—just carry on farther down Jay Street (I did this as part of my commute to the city for years).
Though it may now have a reputation as one of the city’s glitzier zip codes alongside its neighbor Cobble Hill (yes, some of the below will technically be on the CH side of the area, but it all blends together…), its old-school roots are what always capture my heart. Carroll Gardens used to be a major Italian community before it was transformed into the West Village in Brooklyn. Today, delis and bakery that are over a century old where people still share stories in Sicilian dialect can compete with newer establishments such as Rachel Comey. Carroll Gardens, like the best of New York City, doesn’t forget about its roots. It simply learns how to make room for what’s next.
7:30 a.m. Walking and coffee on the move
I’m an early bird and love to walk along the boulevards on Union, Clinton and Henry streets before anyone else has woken up. Many places offer excellent coffee, including Poppy’s Degraw Street has amazing cakes and I like to treat myself with a King David Breakfast Taco at Hungry ghost. Food You Desire on Union and Smith is where I go, and especially so early in the morning. Ismael and Ismael’s guys remember my name and order, and they may even send me a gift package with toys and clothes if I have a new baby (as I did when I gave birth to both my son and my daughter). It’s hard to choose the best bodega of New York, but this is my pick.
Breakfast Pancakes at 9.30 am
There is nothing more classic than a diner from the past. Cobble Hill Coffee ShopThe salt of the earth all-day spot is located on Court. My kids and I stop here for breakfast burritos that are the size of an eggplant, pancakes covered in butter and syrup, and more coffee if we get to the playground before the rush. They also serve excellent cheeseburgers in the afternoon. It’s a simple, no-frills place in a city dominated by more expensive and newer establishments. If wanting the best BLT of your life, snag a table at eastern-Mediterranean coffee shop NiliSmith, let’s go back to the beginning.
11 a.m. Bring home some of our specialties
Sometimes I pop into Caputo’s Fine FoodsThe old Italian deli near Court Street is worth a visit, not only for its wide selection of olives, but also for the friendly banter that takes place between the shopkeepers and their loyal customers. On my grocery shopping days, I bring home packages of San Daniele prosciutto freshly sliced, bundles fresh stuffed cheese raviolis, chunks of aged Parmesan and small plastic containers of Bocconcini. This is also a great place to get everything you need for your own aperitivo party if you are having friends over. Mazzola’s, where they make their lard bread every day in the early morning hours, is the perfect place to grab a loaf. Smith and Vine It has a wide selection of organic and international wines. My go-to is a Grüner and Barbera.
Take a bite at 1 p.m.
It’s hard to beat for lunch Court Street Grocers Their creative menus, and their mountain-high sandwiches are to be commended. When feeling adventurous, I will try the salmon and potato chips or the broccoli reuben. Pro tip: if the line is too long, you can walk up a block to F+F PizzeriaSlice window. Partanna is a delicious pizza that’s finished off with red onion and chili. This may be controversial, however, the Partanna is far superior to the squares you can get from Baby Luc’s across the street.
Three o’clock: books, dresses and perhaps a vintage double-boiler?
Afternoons, I walk around the area to shop. Books are Magic Emma Straub runs a well-curated and fun book store that hosts signings, readings, and other events. I’ll be exploring the resell and original items, including funky cardigans, dresses, and more, at the bright, beautiful bookstore. Rue St Paul, The company allows you to rent items before purchasing them, which is perfect for shoppers who are indecisive. The old tableware, signage and more are all so charming. Yesterday’s NewsYou can find anything you need to sell in this section. Want some vintage clothing pegs to decorate your kids’ bedroom? You’ve come to the right place.
4 p.m. Snack time
Four words: Rose cinnamon ice cream. This is my favourite (and I believe the top-selling flavor) from MalaiThe Smith Street ice cream shop fuses South Asian flavours into refreshingly creamy treats. You can sit inside or take your cup and walk around the block.
5 p.m. Blow the whistle
Gowanus yacht club is the place to go for a refreshingly cold beer in the summer. This outdoor bar has been a fixture of the neighborhood and its arrival signifies the official start of summer. It’s laid-back and fun, with an assortment of cold beers, cocktails, and hot dogs and hamburgers when they’re feeling like it. My first love in winter is however skiing. Black Mountain Wine HouseYou can find on Hoyt Street. The space is cozy and really inviting—lots of deep sitting chairs, a large bar, and a roaring fire place. The wine list is also excellent. You should definitely come hungry. The food menu is masterfully created on a hot plate, and the mac and cheese with Gruyèrere and truffle and European-style house panini are a masterclass in bar food.
7 p.m. Dig in
Restaurant Row is a section on Smith Street. There are many places to eat, drink and enjoy the nightlife. Barely Disfigured Pure Pecha is a low-key Mexican restaurant. I’m a sucker for a good meal at Frankie Spuntino‘s. This restaurant opened more than 10 years ago, and helped put the neighborhood then on the map. The restaurant has improved since then. I can’t stop thinking about its sausage cavatelli. There is a bar and large dining area with lots of wood. The dining room is a warm, inviting space, where you can relax, enjoy a bottle of wine or dessert and make the night merry. Its outdoor garden is also the most stylish backyard dining room anywhere in Brooklyn. Frankie’s is the best in a neighborhood that has become increasingly crowded with restaurants. It’s possible that it is my favorite restaurant for the entire city because of its combination of great food, welcoming spaces, and ambience.
9 p.m. The drink to have after or before dinner
Okay, this is 9 p.m. But it could’ve been 5 p.m. Brooklyn Social This is the ideal cocktail spot in this neighborhood. The bar is located in a former Italian Social Club. Photos from that time period hang on the walls. Mafia bosses used to use the corner table near the door to conduct meetings and to keep an eye on the people coming and going. This place has excellent martinis, negronis, and a small backyard where you can enjoy drinks in the open air on warm nights.
Nightcap at 11 p.m.
Boat is my go-to bar when I need a drink for the road. The dive bar is unapologetically gritty. It’s the oldest (and, largely, only remaining) in the area. The bar is cash-only, the lighting is dim, and until recently a pool table was pushed around the back. You can enjoy a beer or a shot here, and you might even hear some of the wacky neighborhood gossip that is shared by regulars who sit at its long bar all night.
