You can also find out more about the OOutside the train window is a flickering film of lambs, swans, and flowering fruit trees nesting in the marshy areas. The Exe estuary is followed towards Dawlish. Along the beach there are flocks of waders.
The Dart valley, also known as Torbay in English, is my next destination. I plan to explore the area by bus, steam train, ferry, riverboat, and foot. This area offers wine, walking and seafood, as well as a history that ranges from prehistoric cave dwellers to Agatha Christie. Devon holidays do not have to be a driving holiday. On previous trips I’ve always stayed at hotels. Exeter and toured by trainYou can either base yourself in Torquay It is possible to walk along the coast path, and then take a boat to Brixham. This time I am testing what I can do without a vehicle by staying at an old farmhouse on the countryside half a mile away from the nearest bus stop.
Bus 125 There are buses every half hour from Paignton. The road leading from Four Cross Lanes to Sandridge Barton The winery is covered with honeysuckle and pink campion. Skylarks and robins sing in the apple tree. It’s hard to believe that I was in Essex in the rain this morning, and now am in a sunny Devon Vineyard, ready for my midday tour. The sharpham sparkling wine is made on-site and tastes of tart apple crumble and oak. The last sample, a young and fruity red wine, is served with Sharpham cheeses Local chilli jam.
Then I walk for about a mile until I reach Stoke Gabriel to buy supplies. The route is idyllic, a narrow path under banks of wildflowers and ferns. Birdsong and the sound of a waterfall near an old mill are all that can be heard. This is a path that I would never have discovered if I had come by car. The rocky beach of the Millpool is where I find the River Shack Sesame-seaweed and honeyed sardines are served right on the shore. Children fishing with bacon sacks have caught and released dozens of green and orange Crabs that are moving sideways across the dam. In the far corner of the pool is a heron fishing.
Sandridge Barton: new restaurant The orchard is closed and only swallows and sheep are flying overhead. I am joined by my brother from Somerset in the last bus, and we each have an entire floor of the pale pink wisteria-decked building. Lower Well Farmhouse The winery is right next door. It would comfortably sleep eight in three doubles and a twin, all en suite, and downstairs there’s a slate-floored farmhouse kitchen, beamed, log-fire-warmed sitting room and a walled courtyard strung with lights (from £278 a night, three nights minimum).
Agatha Christie’s home at Greenway We decide to walk the three miles south along the River Dart the following morning. We walk down a lane for about a mile and then pick up the path that leads to Galmpton Creek. Greenway trailTo the gate, you can walk along a stony shore, through forests and up hills. Greenway is accessible without a car. There are lockers for bags, and hot drinks that visitors can enjoy. We enjoy simnel tea and scones before exploring the gardens. Woodpeckers yaffle atop primroses and strawberries, lipstick-bright rhododendrons and cascading camellias. In Christie’s old living room, 1930s music is playing. We stroll through woods past mossy water fountains and wild garlic-covered hillsides. This year, the National Trust has introduced a new half-price admission for non-members after 2.30pm (full price £17 adults, £8.50 under-18s).
The Dartmouth Steam Railway Company and River Boat Company offers different routes along the River Dart, and also sells combo and Round Robin tickets. We catch the ferry from the small quay beneath Greenway. boat to Dartmouth (£12) along the wide, tree-lined river to explore palm-studded gardens and half-timbered houses. A quick ferry trip (£2.50) to Kingswear brings us to one end of the steam railway (£23.50) and, from the glass-walled observation carriage (£3 extra), the views are unbeatable.
The train crosses viaducts before climbing through neon-yellow flowers and oaks. It then reaches the sandy beaches in Torbay. The day ends with River Teign mussels served on a pub-style, sunny terrace. The Boathouse In Paignton with the foaming ocean just feet away. The only problem is, once we’ve finished, the last bus has left and our options are a four-mile sunset walk or a £12 taxi. We take a taxi.
The next morning as we walked to the bus stop, in Stoke Gabriel, paths led us from the water up through an orchard, a village churchyard and a 1,000 year old yew, whose branches sag on wooden posts. The next morning, as we walked to the bus stop in Stoke Gabriel, paths led us up from the water and through a community orchard. In the village churchyard, a 1,000-year-old yew tree rests its sagging branches on wooden posts. PlusBus ticket for the whole Torbay area costs £3.70 for a day and gives you unlimited bus travel as an add-on to a train ticket.
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We catch Paignton bus 22 Torquay Harbour Red-legged turnstones In April, a statue of Christie and her dog Peter was unveiled. She was a Torquay native and many of her books feature local scenes. She would be more familiar with the boat and steam trains of yesterday than those of today. Rib ride (£37). The hour-long tour includes caves, coves, rocky arches and cormorants, as well as harbourside seals. We then fly back across the bay, salt spray splattering our faces.
Torquay has many Christie-related attractions, such as Beacon Cove where she almost drowned, the Grand Hotel where she honeymooned, and Kents Cavern which inspired The Man in the Brown Suit.. Tour of the city Kents Cavern Through a wooden gate, the guide leads you into the dripping tunnels of ancient cave-bears. He will also show you stalactites, pickaxe marks, and bands of calcite. The guide lights moss-and-beeswax-filled scallop shells and holds up neolithic skulls like a cheery, enthusiastic Hamlet (£16.95 adults, £14.25 under-16s, if booked in advance).
Torquay MuseumThe fossilised jawbone from a 41,000-year old human is displayed in a gothic-style building, five minutes by public transport away from Kents Cavern. This was one of Britain’s oldest Homo species. Also on display are stuffed animals, farm kitchens, Egyptian sarcophagis and Torquay marble pictures. In the UK’s only gallery dedicated to Christie, there’s also one of her fur coats and the walking stick David Suchet used to play Poirot (£10 adults, £5 under-18s for an annual pass).
Before our train, we can have a quick meal. No SevenA seafood bistro and wine bar overlooking the sea. The Tickled Pink Torquay Gin, flavored with raspberry and rose petal from Torre Abbey Garden, everything from the gurnard and basil with tomato to the tempura skate wing or plaice, is perfect.
Accommodation is provided by Sandridge Barton Travel by GWR Tickets in advance from London Paddington Torquay or Paignton from around £50 each wayTaunton or the surrounding area £6 Every wayWith additional Help You can also find out more about us on our website. English Riviera
