Tamarind Tribeca
Avtar Waalia, the chef-owner of Dawat in Manhattan in 1986, has been a pioneer in New York City’s Indian dining scene ever since he persuaded Madhur Jaffrey, a culinary star and actress. Tamarind is his Tribeca institution, which has revolutionized Indian fine dining in New York. Tasteful interiors provide an elegant backdrop for refined dishes such as lobster masala and prawn curries. Tamarind has been around for a long time and is still going strong despite all the trendy new restaurants that have opened in the past few years.
Vatan
This Murray Hill institution is worth seeing, not just reading about. The Third Avenue façade doesn’t begin to prepare you for what lies within: My jaw hit the floor when I walked into the unexpectedly cavernous dining room modeled after a traditional Gujarati village, complete with faux trees, thatched-roof booths, murals of pastoral Indian vignettes, and a massive Ganesh statue presiding over it all. Vatan’s all-you can-eat $45 vegetarian prix-fixe is a feast. A huge thali will be regularly updated with samosas on demand. This place is perfect for those who want to spend some time here.
Dhamaka
Dhamaka literally means explosion and that is exactly what this colorful Lower East Side The New York City spot will land in 2021. The Unapologetic Foods The Indian restaurant scene in New York was dominated by Adda in Long Island City, and Semma in East Village. But it wasn’t until Dhamaka opened in 2008 that I realized the culinary zeitgeist that had gripped the city. Roni Mazumdar’s restaurant and chef Chintan Pandya’s were the very first teams to have the courage to prepare food in their own style, without having ingredients lowered (goat testicles and kidney anyone?) Spice levels or ingredients to suit Western tastes. Indian diners who wanted authentic Indian flavors beyond butter-chicken were immediately impressed. This led to everyone else pushing their limits and expectations for what Indian tastes could be. Dhamaka is a restaurant that has inspired many others to follow its lead. With its vibrant interiors and blaring Bollywood soundtrack, it’s always a success.
Brooklyn
Lore
I’m not sure why Lore isn’t one of the hardest-to-get reservations in New York, but at least that means chef Jayesh Kumar’s Park Slope spot has managed to retain its neighborhood charm—for now. Try Kumar’s innovative menu that draws on his South Indian heritage and European training. (He spent decades living in Switzerland before opening Lore, in 2022). You’ll be amazed at the unlikely combinations like roti ravioli, kimchi-uttapam and steak au poivre served with masala butter. Kumar recently opened a Dosa Stand at Smorgasburg. He will also be opening a Bar called Folk. in Park Slope later this summer—with creative globally inspired cocktails and clever small plates like biryani arancini on the menu.
Indian Table
The cuisine of tiny west state of is characterized by its tangy flavors and Portuguese influence. Goa is unlike any other in India—but it can be hard to come by in the city, aside from appearances by vindaloos or the occasional poee bread on menus. But when I’m missing Goa’s famous susegad—laid-back—way of life, I make my way to Cobble Hill’s Indian Table, where Goan chef Eric McCarthy guides diners through a deep dive through classics from his home state: think chicken cafreal, ros omelette, and pork sorpotel, and plenty of coastal classics like the kalchi kodi fish curry and crab cutlets. The dining room is cozy and decorated in Portuguese tiles. However, when it’s hot, you may want to sit on the patio, which is lit up with fairy lights, to feel like you are sitting in a veranda at Assagao.
Queens
Angel Indian Restaurant
It is difficult to pick favorites. Jackson Heights—you could eat well in this multicultural hub brimming with Indian, Pakistani, Bangladeshi, and Nepali restaurants for weeks without ever going back to the same spot twice. Angel, on the other hand, is worth many returns. Since it opened in 2019, the restaurant has been a local favorite (Bungalow Chef Vikas Khanna loves it). It offers everything from a unique take on butter chicken, to rarer dishes such as lotus root kofta. Plus, there are naans that you will want to cover yourself in. But the star here is the dum biryani—in vegetarian, chicken, and goat varieties—that comes shrouded beneath a crust of bread. The server will mix it up and release steam as he carves the biryani open.
Note: While the space may seem a little cramped, owners recently opened a new, more spacious location that is not far from the first.
Raja Sweets and Fast Food
Feeling snack-y? The Jackson Heights vegetarian restaurant is a local institution, thanks to its delicious chaat and fried snacks. They are the perfect combination of sweet, savory, crunchy and tangy. Begin with samosas or pakoras. Then, order sev puri, aloo bhatura, papri-chaat and other fried treats. Finish with a refreshing lemon soda and mango lassi. You can satisfy your chaat desires during a hot weather by ordering based on your tolerance for spice.
Hindu Temple Canteen
It’s hard to believe that beneath the Ganesh Temple, in Queens, lies a canteen where you can enjoy some of New York’s best South Indian cuisine. Since 1993, the Temple Canteen has perfected South Indian staples like pillowy idlis, crispy dosas, and thick, buttery uttapams—all best dunked in a silky coconut chutney. Ghee pongal is a delicious and healthy dish that I order often. The place is a no frills one where aunties are busy keeping the weekend crowds moving while huge dosas fly past. They’re stuffed with anything from traditional potato masala to paneer and other adventurous fillings. My weakness? The Pondicherry dosa—a triangular beauty spread with spicy chutney and a savory mixture that delivers serious heat. Paired with hot Madras Tea, sweetened to the right degree with sugar. —Pallavi Kumar
