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Jessica Chapel
Jessica Chapel, Commerce Writer is at Condé Nast TravelerShe covers retail and travel content. She has lived in Williamsburg, Brooklyn for over six years—and has been in love with the neighborhood ever since she heard stories of it from her grandfather, who owned a factory on Graham Avenue in the ’80s.
Williamsburg is a city that has never been still. I’ve lived here for years. Brooklyn For over six years now, I have lived in this neighborhood. my roots run deeper—my grandfather owned a sweater factory on Graham Avenue through the late ’80s and well into the ’90s. The building was a part of the growing Puerto Rican neighborhood, where Latin music flooded the streets, and hot Caribbean food was served on every corner. (This is before rising rents forced him out and then back into the neighborhood. Puerto RicoThe theme of the era was, and it is still prevalent today. The area has changed massively, first in the 2000s with the emergence of young urbanite hipsters and café owners sharing the streets with bewildered Hasids, and more recently with high-earners. It’s true, the north waterfront is now buzzing with designer shops and lofts that are more like Manhattan Brooklyn is more like a mall (or a luxurious one) than Brooklyn. The quieter blocks in the south and east are bursting with local shops, dimly-lit restaurants, swanky eateries, and green community spaces. Williamsburg has a soul that is very intact if you know where to find it.
Skip the designer pop-ups and the chains. You can tap into the true texture of the area by exploring the older social clubs that have a cultural flair, the new restaurants that offer a unique ambiance, and the less-sceney bars which are just the right amount of edge to keep the crowds away. Of all of the places to eat and play—and there’s plenty at that—these are my favorite for a perfect, low-key day and dance-y evening in my favorite neck of these Brooklyn woods.
What to do in Williamsburg Brooklyn?
Breakfast on the go or at home.
Head to PPL, my go-to for a to-go coffee—mine, a sweet iced latte with oat milk. It is located in a corner with hanging plants, and the hushed sound of regulars. Head straight to Santa FeIt’s a tiny New Mexican restaurant that makes some of the most delicious breakfast burritos. The potato version is the best if you are vegetarian. It’s all counter-service here in the morning—and while lines can snake out on weekends, they move fast and it’s worth every minute.
You can have a brunch at home. Allswell delivers a rustic and cozy feel with solid plates and strong coffee (or top-of-the-line brunch cocktails)—great for people-watching, solo journaling, or catching up with a friend you haven’t seen in too long.
11 a.m. Stroll McCarren Park
McCarren Park can be reached easily by late morning for a stroll through the neighborhood. Sure, Domino Park has the views, gloss, and scene, and it’s worth seeing at least once, but McCarren feels greener, more lived-in—it’s therefore better for people-watching (see: the occasional photo shoot or softball game). In the summer, the Farmers Market is spread out along the park’s edges. It’s a great place to see local farms, produce and families. Photographers will walk around with Polaroids and ask if you would like to purchase your own photo as a souvenir for a small charge. There are food trucks lined up, offering sweet and savory choices. Kids on scooters pass dogs in the shade. If the sun is high, grab an ice-cold drink. Parkhouse—a buzzy venue in the middle of the park that invites all from stroller to laptop crowds, and everyone in between. It’s chaotic in a right way—though, given its convenient location, overpriced if you decide to eat or drink there.
Local shops open at 1 pm
Early afternoon is the time I enjoy wandering east to some of my favorite stores. Monk Vintage sits near the park and never fails to surprise me—a true treasure trove of eclectic finds, from fringe dresses to perfectly broken-in boots. Few blocks away, Stella Dallas Living The store is like a curated collection of Americana. You’ll find vintage textiles, denim and a whole range of other beautiful tactile items that you didn’t even know you wanted, until you see them. Then, there’s Female Form, down on Grand Street—it’s drenched in pink and stocked with trendy jewelry, stylish gifts, and more than a few summer dresses I didn’t need but somehow brought home. It is possible to find joy in unexpected places.
2:30 p.m. A late(r), lunch
After shopping, you may find yourself craving something sweet. Anthony and Sons Panini Shoppe for a properly fat and utterly delicious Italian sandwich like the Godmother hero—to name a few of its ingredients, spicy soppressata, prosciutto cotto, and fresh mozzarella. Post up outside if you are still close to the park Five Leaves Williamsburg is a great place to experience a more classic Williamsburg. New American food with a hint of Australian influence is on offer. The brunch menu is fantastic, and you can’t go wrong with the ricotta-filled pancakes. You can also grab a quick bite at the food trucks around McCarren’s northern corner, especially those that serve Mexican tacos or bowls. You can also head to Mugs Ale House. This Bedford Avenue hotspot attracts a local crowd that is very active at night. However, when the lights are on, it becomes less crowded. When the windows are wide open, you get extra points. It serves its bar-food Just right, too.)