You can also contact us by clicking here.The Great Northern Coalfield was once the source of raw fuel for Britain during the Industrial Revolution. For more than two centuries coal from Durham and Northumberland mines was transported down a maze rail lines and wagonways to the coast, where it would then be shipped to London.
The mines have long since disappeared, but eight-miles north of Durham City, you can find relics from the industrial history of the North-East, hidden among ancient woodlands and a steeply-sided gorge.
I have walked in this area as a child and teenager, but on my eight mile route, you will visit key historical sites. The pub at the end of your journey has ties to the Napoleonic War.
My journey through the past begins in Eden Place, an area for picnics near Beamish. This is the former site of a terrace of old miners’ homes. I start out along a disused rail path that was once a busy route linking Consett steelworks and Sunderland. This is part of the Irish Sea-North Sea. C2C cycle route So, to find some peace, I switch tracks and take the parallel route through the hellhole woods. As I walk along patches after patches of wild garlic, in full bloom, they are quite pleasant.
The route winds its way through fields, a few roads and finally arrives at Tanfield Railway – which claims to be the world’s oldest railway. The Grand Allies, a group of colliery-owning family associations, built the wagonway in 1725 to transport coal to the Tyne from the inland mines. Later it was converted to a rail line. Since the closure of this section in 1964, enthusiasts brought it back to life. Vintage steam trains shuttle visitors between East Tanfield Station, where I’m located, and Marley Hill.
A tearoom is located in the station. Old maps of rail lines that used to run through the area are displayed in an engine shed. Although it’s tempting, I don’t want to miss the dramatic end of my walk and instead take the six mile round trip on the train.
From the car park I follow a path that leads to Causey Arch. Soon, I’m walking up the steep-sided gorge. Woodland has covered this area for centuries, and as I look down at the stream below in the gloom, it feels ridiculously remote – until the spell is broken by the hoot of a locomotive chugging along the other side of the gorge.
A huge bridge crosses the dene about half an hour after you leave Tanfield. This is Causey ArchA noticeboard announces that it is the oldest single-arch bridge still standing in the world. The Grand Allies commissioned the local stonemason Ralph Wood, to span the ravine in 1725. The design was based on Roman technology. When the wooden bridge collapsed, he rebuilt it in stone. Wood committed suicide according to local legend, after he feared a second bridge collapse. The bridge still stands nearly 300 years after its restoration in 1980s.
I climb to the top of the gorge to inspect an old wagon with a group of hikers, then descend a steep path down to the bottom. A footbridge offers the best view of this perfect arch. It rises 24 metres above the burn, and is framed by trees.
As I walk, I hear shouting. A wall of yellow, rain-stained sandstone then appears. This is Causey Quarry, popular rock climbing area and place where I first learned ropework many years ago. For old times sake, I traverse a short distance above the muddy terrain. I shudder as I recall the rock climbing antics of my childhood.
Poppy Coffee Pot in the Causey parking lot is a welcome stop after a long walk up an artificial embankment. Fortified by cake, I continue to walk along the bridleway. Tyne and Wear Heritage WayBefore heading into the open countryside, we take a road called Coppy Lane. It eventually starts to descend, and soon the roof tiles start to show. Beamish Hall The local landowners have lived on this property for centuries.
The hall began as a 13th-century fortified farm. It was rebuilt in the 1800s and former Prime Minister Anthony Eden’s family lived there. It is now a hotel and, as I stroll up for a closer look, its manicured lawns offer a welcome break from the rough tracks in the woods (doubles from £92). The old stables are now a restaurant as well as The Coach House Cafe which serves afternoon tea. I am too dirty to sit down for dainty sandwiches and cakes, so continue my journey.
The fluttering bells and voices of the tram are heard as the tram passes over the skyline. I didn’t realise I was so close. Beamish open-air museumThe site, which is 140 hectares (350 acres) in size, was awarded the title of “Best Site for the Preservation of Life” last week. Art Fund museum of the year.
It is difficult to imagine, with only the occasional dog-walker as company, that this area in the early 1800s was a hub of industrial activity. This included a paper mill, iron forges and one forge which boasted the reputation of “casting England’s finest muzzle loading cannon”. After passing Flint Mill, I soon enter Ousbrough Wood. This site is of great importance to nature conservation. It contains ancient trees, conifer plants, and was once used as pit props by the mines.
The oak and silver birch trees are covered in a variety of paths. I sometimes take the wrong path and have to retrace my steps before returning to the heritage route. It’s a steep climb, but the path eventually leads to a country lane. After passing an 1863 row of almshouses, I turn left to reach the pub.
The Shepherd & Shepherdess Its name comes from two large painted lead figures which adorn the original door. This dates back to the 18th century. These metal figures are said to date back to the Napoleonic Wars, when they were smuggled in as “works” of art during a French lead blockade. They would then be melted down and used for weapons. The two figures were saved from a fire by a Beamish Hall squire, and ended up in the pub.
The tales are a nice touch for this excellent hostelry. It has an open fireplace in winter and serves pub food. There are also good gluten-free and vegetarian options, and lasagne and sea bass. I’m drawn to the local speciality of corned-beef and potato pie, served with chips, greens and gravy. The perfect way to end a walk in Beamish is with a pint the pub’s cask beer.
