You can also find out more about the A-Team here.It is important to give serious thought when naming a range of mountains. It should have a certain character, evoke intrigue and elicit desire. Who wouldn’t want to visit the Crazy Mountains of Montana or make a fiery deal with California Diablo Range? As I studied a map in Spain, a large patch of green and gray emptiness was marked with the intriguing words: Sierra de la Demanda.
I’ve traveled all over Spain In the last 20 years, I have been working and playing in Spain. But these “demanding mountains” had eluded. They are situated in the northern interior, about halfway between Madrid, and Santander. This remoteness (as well as a lack of English language Google results) added to the mystery. The Sierra de la Demanda is a huge area that spans Spain’s least-populated regions Burgos Soria, and La Rioja. A closer look at the maps revealed a vast expanse of almost roadless limestone peaks, valleys ravines rivers, gorges, and glacial lakes. The highest peak was San Lorenzo which towered 2,271 meters (7,451ft). The call to adventure was real.
This isn’t the Spain of dusty, white villages. The improvised plots, stone ruins, and makeshift shacks on the north face of the Demanda, where it is cooler and wetter, are reminiscent to forgotten corners in eastern Europe. The terrain gets harsher as you ascend above the treeline. You can see the valleys below, covered in pines. The Demanda mountain range is not as dramatic, but it appears gradually and almost in secret. Its true beauty only becomes apparent once you are deep within. Every season has its charms. In winter, the snowy mountainsides are a picture-perfect scene. But in spring, the melting water sends waterfalls roaring down among the wildflower meadows. By autumn, temperatures will be in the 20s C range with a (mostly) clear sky. Pink heather and alpine flower carpets cover the ground.
The town of Ezcaray, on the north side, is the closest thing to a tourist hub – a scenic former textile centre on the River Oja that operates as a base for the small ski resort of Valdezcaray, built in the 1970s (the Palacio Azcárate has doubles from €90, B&B). After the ski centre, the sealed road abruptly ends and becomes a rocky path that is a nerve-wracking drive in a rental car. It follows a ridge at over 1,800 metres (6,00ft) before looping around back to Ezcaray with a dizzying descent. The views are stupendous in every direction – fold upon fold of untouched mountain wilderness and, apart from the occasional hiking trail signpost, nothing human-made in sight.
A dirt track marked by an old, hand-painted sign and appearing almost invisibly on the Michelin map will take you to the foothills of the southern foothills, via the Lagunas de Neila. This cluster of lakes is surrounded by pine forests and cliffs. At 6,000ft, the lakes can only by reached on foot. They make for a refreshing dip. Laguna Negra gets its name from the dark water, but when it is illuminated in the afternoon, you can see a shimmering, deep blue. It’s a bracing experience, as expected, but what will really take your breath is the scale and solitude of the place. I was only accompanied by the sound of a chorus surprisingly loud frogs ribbeting out from the reeds.
The south side of the mountain, looking downhill lagunasThe Demanda feels different. Spain’s oak forests and medieval architecture become familiar as the climate becomes drier. ermitas In the villages, old men sit in their chairs and wave at each other outside of the taverna.. There are many hiking and biking trails, but this is a wilderness area.España vacía” – empty Spain – and human activity remains a rare sight outside the towns. This phenomenon of the interior’s depopulation is much discussed by Spanish politicians and citizens, and the low density is tangible here – traffic is light and most of the activity is among the animal kingdom. Deer and boar leap from the trees to the road. And as the forest opens up into a rocky landscape, hundreds of griffons perch along the cliffs.
Quintanar de la Sierra in the southern foothills is an ideal base from which to explore the Demanda. Hostal Domingo offers affordable rooms (doubles from €55, room-only). As in all villages of the region, life is slow and peaceful. The locals travel on horses or in 4x4s. They don’t speak English and the shops close all afternoon. Everyone, young and older, socialises at the town square. café con leche will set you back €1.50. The hotels and bars, like the ski centre are non-ironic throwbacks to the 1970s. Their only concessions to the 21st Century are charmingly primitive websites and an email. The land of social media has forgotten about it, and the country is better off because of it. While it may not seem like there is much to do in terms of tourist attractions on the surface, if you dig deeper, a fascinating and eclectic landscape of rich history and culture will emerge.
Salas de los Infantes is a town in the south of Spain where dinosaurs roamed. Hundreds of footprints can be seen near this town. dinosaur museum. The eerie thing is that we are moving on just a few thousand miles and for a few millions of years. Necrópolis de CuyacabrasThe ruins of the ancient Roman bridges, abandoned monasteries, and ruins of all eras – from medieval to mid-century – can be found in every village. Meandering through the villages, Roman bridges, abandoned monasteries and ruins of all eras – from medieval to mid-century – appear at every turn. Salas has a disused railway that is perfect for those who enjoy industrial archaeology. This includes climbing around abandoned buildings and crumbling stations.
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Santo Domingo de Silos, a town in which the monastery is still in perfect condition (stay in this area), is one such place. Hotel Tres Coronas de Silos, an 18th-century palace nearby; doubles from €95, room only). Its abbeyThe monks of the monastery, which dates back at least to the 10th century, scored a number one album in 1994 with Gregorian chants. Visitors can also listen to the vespers every evening.
Three miles over the hill from Silos, you’ll find yourself at an altogether different but equally revered site – Sad Hill cemetery, one of cinema’s most well-known locations, where the closing scene of The Good, The Bad & The Ugly was filmed in 1966. Then, twenty miles to the west, you’ll find yourself in a fantasy world that is even more fantastic. Territorio ArtlanzaThe sculpture claims to be the biggest in the world. A magical, full-scale reproduction of a medieval Castilian village, created by Félix Yáñez, a local artist, from materials salvaged from rubbish dumps, it includes porticoed squares, a perfectly equipped school, a carpentry shop, bakery, forge, canteen, wine cellars, an alchemist’s pharmacy and even a small chapel.
These hyperconnected times are not characterized by empty patches of maps with few Google results. Sierra de la Demanda has a timeless quality that feels like innocence. While other parts of Spain are struggling with overtourism, these mountains breathe fresh air. The charms of the Demanda are simple and unshowy, and ironically, make few demands on the visitor – except to breathe deeply and tread lightly.
