There’s something decidedly glorious about bumping along a eucalyptus-lined dusty red dirt trail on a rented bicycle, knowing that certain things about Porquerolles—a small island off the coast of Hyères—never change, beginning with the pristine beaches. Plage Notre-Dame remains my favorite swimming area, even after many visits over the last three decades. The sound of cicadas is a perfect accompaniment to this high-technicolor experience. You lock your bike to a weathered pole, shaded by windswept umbrella trees, and then stop to admire the panoramic curved sand strip. Then, you scramble down the wooden steps to find a spot to spread your towel. Wading through the limpid shallows—a glittering pale aquamarine—it’s hard to imagine that you’re only a 15-minute ferry or water taxi ride away from the overdeveloped French Riviera. You’re all alone, save for the crowds of tourists in high-season.
Porquerolles, a government-protected National Park, prohibits cars and smoking (except in the tiny village square, lined with cafés, where old-timers play pétanque). Bring snacks and plenty of water—there are no lifeguards, no sandwich stands, no sunbeds, and very little shade. Another option, once you’ve dried off, is to visit the nearby Villa Carmignac, a cutting-edge contemporary art museum, then lunch at their superb outdoor restaurant serving Provençal specialties and chilled island-grown rosé. At sunset, the palms will turn black and the sky will be a fuchsia and orange.
What to do: Book a romantic getaway Le Mas du Langoustier Choose a family-friendly hotel. Hotel les Medes. —Lanie Goodman, contributor
