There’s a kind of magic to watching a landscape roll by through a train window—villages, vineyards, and mountains unfolding like a slow-motion film. In the spring, trees are laden with fruit blossoms. Rapeseed fields turn a bright yellow. You can also stretch your legs or visit the cafe for a cup of coffee.
In April, I had the chance to rediscover Europe—not just as a food lover, but as a traveler craving deeper connection. With a Eurail Pass I have a phone and it has been a week. train travel Before me, I travelled to Paris with the two goals of tasting my way through five cities in three countries and slowing down my brain so that I could enjoy looking out the windows, meeting train friends and reading my long, juicy book.
My journey began in Paris. It continued through Reims (France), Mainz, Freiburg and Zurich. This gave me a glimpse of Europe’s vibrant food and agricultural scenes. I met many farmers, chefs and makers, whose lives revolved around the land and seasons.
Instead of airports and taxis, my travel time became part of the story—reading, writing, and daydreaming in sun-drenched train cars, and arriving in the city center ready to explore. Eurail, also known as Interrail in Europe, is a synthesiser of different modes of transport. Europe’s train linesTravelers can connect to over 30,000 destinations in 33 different countries.
Milan, Zurich and Rome will be the most popular cities to visit via Eurail in 2024. But my favorite part about train travel It allows you to visit less-popular destinations. The Eurail Pass is all you need to get on a train in Plovdiv (Bulgaria), with its ancient Roman theater tucked into the hillside. Or Aarhus – Denmark’s second largest city, that feels like an undiscovered coastal gem.
Eurail also has a handy trip planner. You can explore routes and destinations, even if a pass is not purchased.
Biodynamic Champagne in Reims (France)
Hannah Howard/Travel + Leisure
Reims is steeped with history. We left our luggage at the Continental Hotel—just across from the train station—and explored the High Gothic Notre-Dame de Reims Cathedral before hopping a commuter train to Champagne AugustinA biodynamic vineyard nestled in the hills of Avenay. I walked among the vines waking up for spring, and learned about the astrology and nature that lead the way in this vineyard. There were also giant crystals placed throughout the vineyards and barrel room.
Maxence, Arthur and Emmanuelle Augustin, who are nine-generation winemakers themselves, run the company with their fathers. Maxence poured us eight of their champagnes. The wines had a taste of minerals, life and soil. Maxence stated, “We listen to the juice and respect it. In return, the juice gives us a lot.”
I’m hungry after seeing all those bubbles. L’ExtraIt’s worth stopping at, located in an elegant art deco building from the 1920s. The restaurant offers people with disabilities training and career opportunities. The octopus was silky and the foie gras cube with candied nuts was perfect.
Heirloom Apples at Mainz, Germany
Hannah Howard/Travel + Leisure
Three trains took us almost an entire day to get from Reims back to Mainz. We had to go through Paris on the way. The blossoming fruit trees were a foreshadowing of our trip to Appel HappelA multigenerational orchard. The air was filled by the smell of cider and blossoms. Ilonka walked us around apple, plum, pear and pear orchards.
We walked through Mainz and stopped at a party in a park for medical students who were graduating and the Gutenberg Museum which explores Johannes Gutenberg, whose hometown is Mainz.
Dinner at Pankratz It was a feast for the senses: sourdough starter from their own starters, smoky grilled trout over an open fire, and vegetables straight from their garden. An all-German cheese plate for dessert was a standout—especially a raw milk, mushroomy beauty that oozed onto the plate. The meal was a celebration of hyperlocal sourcing, and a deep respect for ingredients.
Brunfels Hotel The rooms were spacious and the breakfast was delicious.
Market Magic in Freiburg Germany
Hannah Howard/Travel + Leisure
In Freiburg in the Black Forest, Germany, I spent an afternoon exploring the city. MünstermarktThe market has been held on the town square in St. Moritz since the 16th Century. The market was bursting with 150 vendors selling wild garlic, alpine-style cheese, local wines, and hand-milled grains. Asparagus season was at its height, and there were white and green spears everywhere. They ranged in size from pencil-thin up to fat.
With its cobblestone streets, colorful facades, and water-filled Bächle trickling through the Old Town, Freiburg feels like stepping into a fairy tale. There are cafes around every corner, and the ivy-covered streets invite you to linger.
The market gave me a freshly baked rye loaf topped with quark and raspberry pudding. The market was not just a place to buy food; it was also the heartbeat of the city.
Isa Blattmann is a regenerative beef farmer who joined us at lunch. Adelhaus, an organic vegetarian spot with standout herbed spätzle. She said that farming can be isolating. “The market is a place of connection and community.”
I liked drinking a lager. KastaniengartenA beer garden full of families, friends, and first dates playing cards and watching the sun go down over Freiburg’s roofs.
Zurich’s Plant-based Brilliance
Zurich was our final destination. Zurich was our final stop. Umami, an urban vertical farm in a nondescript office building, we saw microgreens grown under LED lights and fueled by energy from fish—a futuristic approach to feeding cities. We blind-tasted the zingy microgreens—The only one I got right were the spicy mustard greens. At that time, the night before, we blind-tasted all of our microgreens. The only one I got right was the spicy mustard greens. Restaurant FreilagerThe same greens were paired up with smoked Ricotta and Swiss biodynamic wine to accompany roasted beets.
Slow Travel and Fast Connections
What struck me most about train travel wasn’t just the ease (no baggage claims, no security lines), but how it fostered intimacy—with people, place, and myself. I had the time to write my journal. I had time to write in my journal. canelés With us. I met a grandmother from California. I finished my novel.
Eurail Pass allowed us to travel seamlessly between countries and languages. The Eurail Pass made Europe seem expansive and accessible all at once. It also made the journey—the literal movement between meals and places—something I truly savored.