Cusco, once the center of the Incan Empire is where most tourists plan their Peru itinerary. Machu Picchu, after all.) This city in the Andes is a fascinating representation of how Spanish, Incan, and pre-Incan cultures have meshed and melded in this part of the world—you could easily fill your days, and many of them, by touring grand colonial churches, cobblestoned streets, and ancient archaeological sites that sit side by side, in some cases on top of one another. All of this makes the many flights to get here worth it. This city is not stuck in the past despite its rich history. There are young artists who have taken residence in the San Blás neighborhood; transplant chefs from Lima Cusco’s abundance of produce and traditional food has drawn many visitors. Local hoteliers have also created new landmarks in the old. This is a place that brings together the past and present. Local and foreign. It’s no coincidence that the Incas’s vast network of roads, known as the Qhapaq Ñan, once joined in this city—even while traveling today’s Peru, it can feel like all roads lead to Cusco.
If you sit down at a food counter in the local market, as I’ve done on several occasions, you may see a backpacker sitting on one side and a shepherd on the opposite (I once sat next to a woman with a lamb at her feet). You might find the same alpaca garments that you have seen 100 times in a souvenir store, or perhaps you will meet a knitter who has a passion for transforming the craft of knitting they learned as children. And that’s, really, the magic of Cusco: the fact that even when you wonder if it’s too touristy for its own good—nearly a million tourists visited Machu Picchu in 2023, and they surely all passed through here—it is still a city marked by the rhythm of daily life for the people who call it home. Get on the beat to really enjoy this city.
Below are my favorite ways to experience Cusco–the places to rest your head, eat like a local, and shop like you have a suitcase Fill in the blanks. You can use them to get started, but the best way to explore Cusco is by walking slowly and taking in everything.
How to reach Cusco
Cusco’s international airport is Alejandro Velasco Astete. However, travelers from the US must connect in Lima. Delta customers will be glad to hear that LATAM is a partner airline. Low-cost airlines JetSmart or Sky can also get you there quickly and inexpensively from many cities within Peru. Once you arrive, you can call an Uber or pre-arrange your transfer to the hotel.
