Since its founding by Brigham Young in 1847, Utah’s capital is associated with the Mormon faith. Salt Lake Temple is still a striking sight against the modern skyline of office buildings. But the temple has been closed since December 2019 for renovations. Most of the temple was formerly accessible only to members; when it reopens next year, it will offer a public open house for the first time.
Salt Lake City is undergoing a transformation. The relatively low cost of real estate and the nearby outdoor adventure scene at ski resorts like have led to a influx of young adults. Park City Brighton. By 2024, Utah has the lowest median age of any state in the country.
A burst in creativity has been triggered by this infusion in youthful energy and capital. I spent time on a recent trip in the neighborhoods which best reflect this transformation.
evo Hotel
Caputos; Logan Sorenson/Visit Salt Lake
Downtown
Utah Pride Festival attracts up 50,000 attendees each June. Salt Lake City boasts one of the most concentrated populations of LGBTQ people anywhere in the United States. Three out of seven members of the city council are LGBTQ. It’s a huge change in a conservative city.
Jim Santangelo says, “Salt Lake City is always full of surprises.” I joined Santangelo’s Whiskey & History walking tour of Downtown, where I learned that though the Mormon faith famously preaches abstinence from alcohol, Brigham Young himself produced a whiskey called Valley Tan—”for trading and medicinal purposes,” according to Santangelo. Our tour ended at White Horse Spirits & Kitchen, We were treated to a variety of local whiskeys and ciders that we paired with oysters freshly shucked from the East and West Coasts.
I was a Mormon and my favorite beverage of the day is a drink that the Mormon faith discourages. The celebrated coffee of Caputo’s Market & Deli is roasted by La Barba, which has been in operation since 2012. Caputo’s opened in 1997 and the shelves reflect both the Greek and Italian heritage of its owners. Matt and Yelena caputo import cheeses, oils, and tinned seafood directly from Italy. This place is a favorite in the neighborhood.
The 225 room hotel offers a wide range of amenities. Asher Adams, Autograph Collection, The coolest place to stay is the newly opened Hotel Downtown, which was built in an old train depot and carefully restored. The original stained-glass window, coved-ceilings and gold details all contribute to the atmosphere of early-20th century splendor.
Bourbon Group
9th & 9th and the Maven District
Just southeast of lower Downtown lies 9th & 9th, an often-overlooked blip on the Salt Lake City map. I was immediately drawn to the Salt & Honey Makers Market, where cofounders Ashley Collett and Nicole Choules give 250 mostly local vendors a space to sell handmade products. I purchased a laser cut map of the city created by Caitlin Brlythe as well as stickers featuring Collett’s illustrations. One of her best-selling items is a rainbow sticker, which makes perfect sense given that the shop is located on Harvey Milk Boulevard. Then, I treated myself to two different kinds of pie. At Pizza Nono, I ordered slices sprinkled with salami and drizzled locally honey; Pie Fight, Just down the street, I chose a blueberry-lemon piece.
The two establishments are located near the “Out of the Blue,The statue is a 23-foot tall statue of a humpback that has been a symbol for the area ever since it was installed in 2022. Some locals claim the sculpture is responsible for record snowfalls in the state since its arrival.
To the west of 9th & 9th lies the Maven District, a collection of 100 businesses, most of which are female-owned, spread across 10 buildings. The Maven District was founded in 2015 by Salt Lake City native Tessa Arneson, and Rocky Donati. Everywhere I went, colorful murals were painted by women. The illustration Brooke Smart’s depiction of women lifting one another up is a perfect example of the ethos that the district embodies. The Maven houses shops, restaurants, and fitness studios. Highlights include Pantry Products, Michelle Czarka makes earth-friendly oils and balms in small batches. Normal Ice Cream, The James Beard Foundation nominated the ice cream shop for Outstanding Bakery in 2023. It was the first ever ice-cream shop to be nominated in this category. The Maven’s growth continues; Arneson launched short-term rental apartment group last year.
Mack Lambert/Fisher Brewing Company
Granary District
The all-ages music venue has a long line Kilby Court When I went on a Thursday night, the line snaked all around the block. The space, which can hold 200 people, hosts up-and-coming artists of all genres. The space was used as a launching pad for acts in the early 2000s such as Death Cab for Cutie or Dashboard Confessional. Doja cat performed there at her debut in 2018.
Granary district, one of Salt Lake’s oldest neighborhoods, was once a manufacturing and industrial hub. It’s now a place for young adults to hang out, with live music venues and breweries. The 50-room hotel will be open in 2022. Evo Hotel. The property—the first of three from the gear brand of the same name—blends seamlessly into the neighborhood, with floor-to-ceiling murals paying homage to nearby attractions, such as Snowbird resort. The property is part of the complex called Campus Salt Lake, This includes an indoor skating park and a 26,000.0-square-foot bouldering gymnasium set in century-old warehouses. The massive store offers equipment rentals for outdoor sports of all types, which is a great complement to the adventures outside the city.
I was walking through the area on a Friday evening when I came across this. Fisher Brewing Co., which attracts beer enthusiasts with its 18 rotating taps, food trucks, and a dog-friendly heated patio with picnic tables. After sipping on Fisher Beer, a classic pilsner, I headed around the corner to the Woodbine Food Hall, Where the colorful graffiti goes well with my Korean Fried Chicken.
Not ready to call it a night, I headed up to Evo’s rooftop Crown Bar, where I cozied up around the firepit and toasted with a beer from local brewer Uinta, with the city in the foreground and the Wasatch Mountains in the distance.
This story was first published in June 2025 issue Travel + Leisure The headline is “Shaking Up the System”.”