In a moment of “If you build, they will comes”, he made a leap during COVID, and laid out plans to open Wing. At the very least, he thought, he would give himself a crash-course in Chinese cuisine. In order to maintain his credibility with staff, he’d wait until the nighttime when they were all home before he fired up the wok himself. He says, “I’m good at it now.” Wing is not a traditional restaurant, and the dishes that he prepares are his own. However, in terms of style and taste, they fit in perfectly. He says, “It’s important to me that the food feels Chinese.”
I often wonder what it means to be “Chinese.” I wonder a lot about the difference between nostalgia and heritage. In Cantonese, my family would never refer to “going” Hong Kong. We would always say “returning.” After meeting so many Hong Kongers who define themselves by what they want to become in the future I began to realize that it’s not just about returning.
We used to spend our time here searching for air conditioning when I was a child. We walked from one mall to another to get away from the stale air. I had never thought of embracing it and savoring it. Hong Kong, with its concrete, steel and glass, is one of the world’s most green cities. Locals enjoy “walking the mountain,” which is designated as country parkland on 38 percent of Hong Kong’s territory. During my stay, I rented an flat in Sai Ying Pun. This steeply-sloped area is a quick and sweaty way to get to the Lung Fu Shan Morning Trail that leads to Victoria Peak. In light of my recent eating habits, I started a new routine for after-coffee and headed uphill.
The early excitement gave way to expletives while I climbed hundreds of steps to get to where the trail began. It was a painful experience when I saw a gentleman wearing a dress shirt and sweater vest with slacks walk by me. I kept going for a satisfying hour until I turned toward High West Mountain, whose trail was basically…more stairs. On the summit, I was struck by a breathtaking view. On one hand, a matchbook-sized version of the Kowloon mountains sat in the haze in front of the skyline. On the other side, the southern coast was rising out of the blue. Ships’ wakes left comet trails on the water. It dawned on me that I had really come to see this place. To be closer to it. To be a member of it.
I turned around and looked at the buildings. Each window has a story to tell: a home or a life. Hong Kong is a city of many people. Tiny, too expensive apartments. Constant shoulder to shoulder crowds. The tension between the rat race, and the need to hold on to one’s sense of self. I thought about the lengths Hong Kongers would go to in order to reinvent themselves for this place. Then I asked myself, “What will I do to be a member of Hong Kong?”
What to Eat
Chef Vicky Cheng interprets Chinese roots at Wing through tasting menus that are inspired by eight of China’s great cuisines, including spicy Sichuan and fresh Cantonese. ArChan Chan has recently taken over the kitchen at Ho Lee Fook, and is now serving up a more classic Cantonese version of the crowd-pleasing food that locals are used to. The transplants are making their mark as well: Andō, chef-founder Agustín Ferrando Balbí blends his Argentine . Estro, Italian chef Antimo Maria Merone Serves squid strips that look like Hong Kong flat noodles. MosuInside the M+ museum, is the Hong Kong branch of the three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Seoul. The two-story building is a great place to get a feel for the fishing village origins of the city. Ap Lei Chau Seafood Market Hong Kong Island. The sellers downstairs will sell their fresh catch, and the chefs upstairs will prepare it to your liking.
What to do?
Hong Kong’s hotels are all about views. The views are the most important thing in Hong Kong hotels. Ritz-Carlton, Hong KongThe tower is located in the West Kowloon Cultural District. Nearly a century old the glamorous Peninsula Hong Kong Tsim Sha Tsui from above. The closer you get to the water the Rosewood Hong Kong The hotel has 413 rooms with views of Victoria Harbour and a pool terrace. Regent Hong Kong Hong Kong Island can be seen from this view. There, the iconic façade of the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong It will remain open this year, despite renovations. From the palatial Island Shangri-La, Hong KongChic Upper HouseAdmiralty is a place where you can enjoy the views of the mountains, peaks and endless skyscrapers.
What to Do
Since 2008, artists’ studios as well as community organizations have been housed at the Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre in the Shek Kip Mei indie enclave. Hong Kong Island. Tai KwunIn 2018, a former prison and police station complex was transformed into a multi-use space that includes art exhibitions, teahouses and performance spaces. Once a housing complex for police officers, PMQ hosts local boutiques like Glue Associates The following are some examples of how to get started: Incense Harbour. In 2021, the art museum M+ with its more than 10,000 items will be opened. Patrons can enjoy film screenings in the galleries or roof garden as well yoga classes. They can also go on excursions. Boat tours are available in Sai Kung Visitors can explore the New Territories’ striking rock formations, which are located in a region of parks and wetlands north of Kowloon.
This article appeared in Issue May/June 2025 of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the Magazine here.
