B.Behind Cassis beach the castle-topped rocks glisten in the afternoon sun. Couples stroll along the sand while children play on the carousel. Pastel-coloured buildings reflected in the calm waters of the harbour. In the main square, lined by plane trees, a group of elderly men concentrate on a game of petanque. It’s a charming slice of Provençal life, a world away from the Cote D’Azur’s more glitzy hotspots. The narrow streets, pretty coastline, and tourists are a magnet in the summer. Off season, weekenders enjoy the relaxed atmosphere. bouillabaisse Along the water edge
I take a seat in a bar with a view of the Med, and plan my route for tomorrow. Cassis is located in the heartland of the Calanques national park – an extraordinary place of steep fjord-like limestone inlets, deep green pines and turquoise sea – perfect for exploring on foot. Macs Adventure’s self-guided hike took me from the Sainte-Baume mountains down to the Riviera over six days. While my hiking legs have been put to the test with up to six hours of walking each day, I’ve not had to worry about logistics. The routes are plotted on the app and my luggage is transferred ahead, leaving me to simply enjoy the scenery.
Solo travel is on the rise, according to the Association of British Travel Agents and tour operators (17% of Macs Adventure trips were booked by single travellers last year – most of them women). Offering the freedom to go at my own pace without having to interact with a group, but with help on hand if needed, this trip promised a winning mix of adventure and comfort; an ideal way to explore less-trodden Provence alone.
My adventure begins with a night in the village of Pont-de-l’Étoile, 30 minutes east of Marseille by taxi, before I set out on my first hike: 10 miles (16km) to Plan-d’Aups-Sainte-Baume. Tarmac soon gives way to stony paths as I leave urban streets behind and climb towards the ridge above Vallon St-Clair through a landscape of craggy limestone valleys, softened by shrubs such as cistus and broom and pockets of pine and oak woodland. Close to the ancient chapel of St-Clair, a mountain biker whizzes past but then silence descends again and there’s just me and sweeping views all the way back to Marseille.
In summer, there is an acute risk of wildfires in this part of France, and water cisterns dot the route (it’s advisable to do this hike in spring or autumn). I climb up what appears to be a giant wooden seat (perhaps a lookout?). Picnic under the most beautiful skies. Then continue up narrow tracks to Col de Bertagne. It’s quiet. I’m nailing it as a solo hiker, I think.
My smugness turns into a contained panic when I realize I have left behind my power bank and paper map. No one is around. I take a punt and scramble down the hillside, battling through dense forest until I find a path which eventually leads to a road. It was more by chance than judgment that I found myself in Plan-d’Aups, and the sight of the Hôtel Lou Pèbre d’Aï – my home for the next two nights – just two hours later than planned. I am delighted to find that my room includes a bath, and slept well that night.
“Walkers love it here,” the receptionist tells me as I prepare to head off the next day, “the mountains are sacred – you’ll see.” Massif Sainte-Baume is a popular pilgrimage site, with its many hidden chapels. Today’s circular walk is nine miles; I climb steep paths through woods to a ridge which I follow for a couple of hours, with 360-degree views across countryside and coast. The route takes me by shrines, caves for hermits and the coast. Sanctuary of Mary Magdalene (she was said to be a penitent here for many, many years) Before a forested descent.
That night I dine on endives with walnuts and goat’s cheese and monkfish in a Provençal sauce – the hotel is known for its cuisine prepared by chef Jérôme. On a table nearby, an elderly man gets out an A4-size image of a gilded saintly figure and props it up next to him while he eats, like a friend joining him for dinner. I think that’s Mary Magdalene.
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The delightful town of Gémenos is 20 minutes by road from Plan-d’Aups, but the route I follow the next day takes five hours – and is perhaps my favourite walk yet. It feels wild and remote, with paths zigzagging next to deep gorges. I pass the ruins of a Cistercian abbey and follow a river into pretty parkland. From here it’s two short bus rides down to Cassis, and flashes of ocean appear between the trees. Three nights at Hotel Royal Cottage and a new landscape await.
On a stretch of coast known more for the glamour of Saint-Tropez, Cannes and Nice, it’s refreshing to discover La Ciotat – an unpretentious former shipbuilding town a 15-minute taxi ride east of Cassis. I wander suburban streets then climb to the top of the Soubeyran cliffs – the highest sea cliffs in France at Cap Canaille. As I wind my way along the coast, the morning mist lifts to reveal a spectacular coastline with indentations. Route des Crêtes back.
The Calanques west of Cassis are the last stop on my itinerary. I leave the villas in the suburbs and head to the Calanque de Port-Miou. Boats bobbing in the water are a welcome sight. To protect the fragile environment, the park restricts the number of visitors in high summer. Today I am almost alone, as I scramble and descend to the white beaches of Port-PinClimbing above Calanque d’en-VauThen, descending through a rocky ravine again to the water. Its beauty feels even more raw under the darkening sky and distant roll of thunder.
When I return to Cassis, it rains heavily. Rain turns the roads into rivers and they flow towards the sea. I take refuge at Le Bonaparte, a family-run bistro in one of the backstreets. Dressed head-to-toe in black, complete with beret, owner Jean Marie tells me he’s run the place for 37 years – “and people still come back for more!” When I tasted the Moules gratinées and deliciously fresh sea bass – accompanied by a glass of the local white wine de Cassis. It’s an authentic taste of Provence – and, I feel, an appropriate way to toast an epic solo adventure through a special and varied part of France.
The trip was organized by Macs Adventure. Seven-day self-guided Provence Mountains to the Mediterranean The itinerary of £1,125Included in the pp. hotel accommodation, breakfast, two dinners, transfers, luggage transfers, You can also find out more about the route by clicking here. NotesGPS Navigation with 24/7 Support
