Before it even opened, booking a table at the seafood-heavy sister of the legendary Don Angie restaurant was a challenge. Take your time if you’re lucky enough to get a Resy or one of the wooden bar stools. Start off with a drink. We made negronis and dry martinis that were perfect, with a lemon peel on top, just like the ones you’d find in Amalfi. The decor was inspired by the Italian coastline with yellows, blues and warm tones. A bar with leather booths and hand-carved stools made the space feel like a West Village restaurant. Then there’s the food. Angie Rito has spent time at Torrisi as well as Don Angie. She is an expert in Italian-American cuisine. She reinvents the dish even more here. In contrast to the usual red sauce dishes, there are many lighter options on the menu. These include salads like the tricolore Sabino (their take on the Caesar), crudos such as the spicy tuna served with arancini (my favorite dish of the night), and a tight, smart selection of other pasta dishes. I resisted the urge to get meatballs and Sunday sauce manicotti and went full fish, because, when in Amalfi…. The lobster triangoli and crab-filled farfalle were both deliciously sauced. The viral dish of the restaurant, the shrimp Parm with its heads poking out from layers red sauce and cheese on a silver plate, had to be ordered. The dish was tasty, but I’m not sure it is a must-order. Opt for a second dish that Rito excels at – fresher and lighter seafood, such as another crudo or perhaps halibut. And if you (like me) still need that fix of more on-the-nose Italian American, it is nice to know that Rito’s meatball spiedini—deliciously seasoned, served on a skewer—can be ordered with any dish, on the side. —Erin Florio, executive editor
